Super Camper Van Top, Another White Van Build - Page 3

smugdoug · 02-03-2011, 10:20 PM

Mike, you may be right. I've become concerned about weight and maybe it's not that big of a deal.

I was told that they used 3/4" ply in the bubble top and it was solid from one side to the other. Now that would be a little more weight probably about 40-50lbs. more than what you see in my pictures. Keep in mind I'm just thinking out loud here, bigger top, small strips, you might be right about 10-20 lbs.. This wood is also the type that you would sheet a roof with, it seems pretty cheap. Take a good look at the close up shot, that stuff looks like that chip board that is really cheap but I think maybe a little lighter!

I do need something to attach my interior to, as well as cabinets. I was told this was 1/2" wood. I'm hoping for some input from DSW4X4 and maybe anyone else that may know something about these tops and how the build out goes.

dhally · 02-03-2011, 11:00 PM

That looks like OSB or Oriented Strand Board. High quality plywood has a higher strength to weight ratio, its stiffer, and it holds screws better. Link to OSB vs. Plywood information. http://www.sbebuilders.com/framing/plywood-osb.php

The area between the strips would be perfect spots for a little Dynamat sound deadener!! These big open vans are really noisy. It is heavy though, compared to insulation.

smugdoug · 02-03-2011, 11:49 PM

Thanks dhally, OSB, that's what it was, large chips of wood pressed together. I'll have to see if I can get that OSB replaced with ply or maybe pine. I'm not too concerned about the noise from the fiberglass. I have already used some dynamat type material in many areas of the van but I don't think fiberglass resonates the same as metal so regular insulation should do it, plus the foam and fabric over the luan should be enough.

carringb · 02-04-2011, 01:52 AM

I would suggest skipping on any solid woods. You risk warping as the wood ages and dries. Plywood and OSB has already been pressed and heat-treated, so warping is less likely.

With Plywood, strength depends on orientation of the grains on the outer plies. Many installers don't understand this. If installed correctly, it will be stronger than OSB. But OSB is omnidirectional,so it doesn't matter which direction it is cut. But OSB is less forgiving to moisture intrusion. I'd be happy with either myself, and I wouldn't worry about 20 pounds (my roof carries nearly 2000 pounds when full loaded. I certainly can't tell the deference if there's another 20 up there.).

Ford_6L_E350 · 02-04-2011, 10:23 AM

I'd err on the side of more wood. At least on the top where you may want to add something heavy in the future.

They have been building this top for quite awhile. There may be reasons for the wood that are not obvious until you run into problems, problems they may have seen and fixed years ago. If you were to add a solid sheet of plywood (marine plywood, just in case) to the top, I would drill many 1" holes in it so the inner and outer fiberglass tied together.

Whatever wood layout you wind up with, I would insist on using marine plywood so a minor leak or later modification wouldn't destroy the integrity of the wood. The extra cost of marine plywood will be a minor portion of the total top cost, but may save the top down the road.

Mike

dhally · 02-04-2011, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ford_6L_E350

I'd err on the side of more wood. At least on the top where you may want to add something heavy in the future.

Whatever wood layout you wind up with, I would insist on using marine plywood so a minor leak or later modification wouldn't destroy the integrity of the wood. The extra cost of marine plywood will be a minor portion of the total top cost, but may save the top down the road.

Mike

Good point on the marine plywood. Moisture shouldn't be able to get to the wood because it's sealed in resin. But if a hole was drilled through the top into the wood water could get in.

If the whole thing was lined with plywood, it would be easier to attach things to the ceiling - wouldn't have to search for the wood strips.

smugdoug · 02-06-2011, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhally

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ford_6L_E350

I'd err on the side of more wood. At least on the top where you may want to add something heavy in the future.

Whatever wood layout you wind up with, I would insist on using marine plywood so a minor leak or later modification wouldn't destroy the integrity of the wood. The extra cost of marine plywood will be a minor portion of the total top cost, but may save the top down the road.

Mike

Good point on the marine plywood. Moisture shouldn't be able to get to the wood because it's sealed in resin. But if a hole was drilled through the top into the wood water could get in.

If the whole thing was lined with plywood, it would be easier to attach things to the ceiling - wouldn't have to search for the wood strips.

The only weight on the top will be a rack down the road. The attachment points for the rack will be on the sides of the top, so I'm not too concerned about supporting the weight of the rack on the ceiling.

I will see if I can get them to put Marine plywood in there. But the more I think about it I'm more comfortable with what they showed me. This top pictured was going to a company that builds Class B's, they wouldn't divulge to me who it was. I didn't know this when I was there, I thought the top pictured was going to another private builder like myself. So Mike you make a good point, they must know what they're doing. My three concerns are: 1) Being able to add side windows to the top without the wood dictating where they go. 2) Securing my cabinets that will be located towards the back of the top, I think they could actually be wedged against each other from one side to the other. 3) Attaching insulation, Luan, and Fabric that could actually be glued in if necessary.

Even with the OSB, that I think is a little lighter, the wood is encased in the Fiberglass so theoretically the wood is encased in resin, at least until I put a screw into it!

carringb, thanks for that input, and everyone's input, I am trying to think this through and it helps to have some different points of view.[attachment=0:bzapyt6n]camper top.

Here is my quickcad drawing. I don't know if you guys can make out everything from the drawing, I haven't figured out how to turn off some of the layers.

bmp[/attachment:bzapyt6n]

smugdoug · 02-17-2011, 09:19 PM

Update: Picked up Top Today!

On the Road down the South Bound 405

Now the fun begins, time to tuna can the lid, Later

Roonie · 02-17-2011, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smugdoug

Good point on the marine plywood. Moisture shouldn't be able to get to the wood because it's sealed in resin. But if a hole was drilled through the top into the wood water could get in.

Even with the OSB, that I think is a little lighter, the wood is encased in the Fiberglass so theoretically the wood is encased in resin, at least until I put a screw into it!

Just an example of this type of construction. We had a boat that was built with wood encased in fiberglass for the structural part and so the motor (inboard/outboard) could attach itself to it. Well dry rot happened and it completely destroyed the wood inside the fiberglass. Everything completely rotted from the motor mounts to the structural ribs in the boat. It was a total loss since the fiberglass itself was not strong enough to support the boat. Needless to say no boats are built this way anymore for exactly this reason. They use structural aluminum honeycomb and fiberglass ---- non deteriating materials.

billwilson · 02-18-2011, 07:35 AM

Smug

ping me and i will come over and supervise

really if you need a hand let me know

bw