6.0 diesel: Turbine carbon issue ?? - Page 4

**BroncoHauler** · 07-31-2012, 01:29 PM

Not based on where I live in SoCal, but if I were travelling to the mountains, yes I would, That's why I still have a few bottles of the Stanadyne Performance Forumla set aside.

Herb

parisdakar · 07-31-2012, 03:25 PM

Copy that. Good information. Thanks Herb!

PatO · 09-17-2012, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PatO

I've had this turbo situation 4 times @ 12K, 20K, 32K and 54K (2 weeks before 7 yr warranty expired) all completely handled under warranty. In fact the service manager actually said "you must not drive a lot" when I came in for the last repair. I would not accept the situation you described. Keep very good records on your repairs if you are a low mileage user. Four similar repairs is the Lemon Law magic number in California.

Yesterday I had my now 5th occurrence of this error code as reported by scan gauge. I am at 61K miles so the last dealer cleaning only lasted about 16 months & 8000 miles. I do use additive and I drive it at least weekly but I do not drive it "hard" because the fuel economy goes to crap so easily. This was at the end of a 180 mile over 3 day camping trip so apparently an infrequent long drive does not "loosen" things up. I had been noticing reduced performance recently too, especially on the steep hill by my house. I also noticed that the VGT scan gauge code is 5% (?) lower now at idle (67) than when I first became aware of that code a few month ago but I'm not sure if this is relevant. My plan is to see if I can go to a non variable vane turbo in California and take care of the EGR and other 6.0 design flaws while it is apart. Now to find a mechanic...

Ultrasport12 · 09-17-2012, 10:47 PM

Here is an article that tells of some of the common 6.0 problems and their fixes.

Maybe you could try the place that helped with the article they must know how to get it past CA emissions testing.

Power Stroke experts at Diesel Tech in San Jacinto, California

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/0907 ... ewall.html

If you go to the pictures of the pipes in the center column third row down and roll over the picture it says:

Sticking vanes in variable geometry turbos (VGT) were very common on '03 to '06 models due to both an inferior turbo design, and a restrictive turbo oil drain tube. The '03 to '05 drain tube (top) was known for limiting oil flow to the point where it couldn't exit the turbo quick enough, resulting in backed up oil sitting and coking rather than lubricating the turbo vanes. The upgraded style drain tube (bottom) can be found on '06 and '07 engines and can be used to replace '03-to-'05-style units. Elite Diesel also informed us that '07-model turbos came with an internal groove that allowed soot and oil to pass through (no buildup as a result), which greatly reduced scenarios where vanes would stick open or closed. The '03-to-'06-style turbos do not have this internal groove.

I know vans might be a bit different but it might be worth calling them.

Good Luck...

...Jamie

**daveb** · 09-17-2012, 10:48 PM

Geesh Pat!

schluchtenflitzer · 09-17-2012, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeta

Apparently lower cetane numbers can lead to carbon issues and other problems.
Z

Absolut correct, i work in the europe marine buisness and we also have the same issues with the very modern VW diesel engines using in boats. At cars they work perfect but in boat riggings we have these issues.

Why? Because of iddling time is very high and because of non-european-standard diesel the owner use. Corbon grows up and after a longer break it takes water out of the air and so it can grow up. This is the reason why the turbo stucks....

we changed the turbos for boat riggings to stainless steel version (the variable wings--sorry no idea how you guys in the US call this) and it helped but do not prevent complete.

So what you can do?
-Use the BEST diesel fuel you can find,
-use the trottle for minimum one time every time you use the car. So that the turbo can spin and gets realy hot to burn out the carbon.

EMrider · 09-18-2012, 07:44 AM

Quote:

I drive it at least weekly but I do not drive it "hard" because the fuel economy goes to crap so easily

One or two full throttle runs is all it takes. You don't have to flog it continuously.
R

Ford_6L_E350 · 09-18-2012, 10:23 AM

I've had my turbo replaced once, 65000 miles ago.

Lately I've been seen low boost codes. When I was doing other work on the engine, found a split boot and replaced it. No codes since. It is possible that a leak (under pressure) in the intercooler plumbing can cause a Check Engine Light and look like a failing turbo. Worth checking for sure.

Mike

**daveb** · 09-18-2012, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ford_6L_E350

I've had my turbo replaced once, 65000 miles ago.

Lately I've been seen low boost codes. When I was doing other work on the engine, found a split boot and replaced it. No codes since. It is possible that a leak (under pressure) in the intercooler plumbing can cause a Check Engine Light and look like a failing turbo. Worth checking for sure.

Mike

Just curious Mike, under full throttle on flat ground what does your boost read? Mine seems a bit low but maybe I'm comparing to when I going up hill.

Ford_6L_E350 · 09-18-2012, 05:59 PM

Dave,

I'm not sure. I could give you my best memory reading, but I think other issues have severely impacted my memories.

Maybe MAP was high 20's. I think it went into the low 30's, but I haven't had it out recently and I don't really know. Ask me again when I get back from the Grand Canyon.

Mike