6.0 PSD Starting Batteries - Size? - Page 2

scatter · 05-17-2009, 05:05 PM

That will sure help Mike, but when the batteries are leaking enough so the acid runs over the top, down the sides, corrodes the battery boxes and drips on the ground, it's time for more drastic action. My sealed batteries seem to have solved the problem. As mentioned elsewhere, I think part of the problem is the rough roads I travel and possibly overcharging due to a bad regulator. Anyway, no corrosion is a good thing.

Greg In Austin · 05-17-2009, 05:22 PM

I have had a number of vehicles that had battery corrosion issues...... and we keep out vehicles once we get them, for a long time...

We have a little bottle of spray stuff that putts a nice coating of something over the terminals... and Wa La... no more corrosion. We bought one bottle years ago and it is still around. We got it at an auto parts store and I have seen it in a number of places since.

The stuff is heavier than WD40 and dries to a non-tacky coating.

IT has worked very well.

tskyhi · 05-22-2009, 10:21 AM

I changed out the batteries a few of days ago. Took about four hours using the floor jack method. The change can be done faster, but I took the extra time to apply some corrosion inhibitor to just about everything as well as anti-seize the bolts. I also had to pull some extra bolts, as the wiring for the Extreme compressor is quite close to the forward battery and needed to be moved during the process. While I was under there I reworked the hoses for the flat plate too.

I went with Bosch Group 65's that I found at Pep Boys - $100 a pop with 1000CA @32F, 850CCA @0F. Also 36 month free replacement, 96 month pro rate AND free jump start road service.

After some of the other posts, I feel lucky that I found absolutely no corrosion on the terminals - clean as could be after 2 1/2 years. There was certainly some dust and dirt, but otherwise looked good.

It does appear that Ford built some accessibility into their design. If you look at things, you should be able to loosen the four bolts and then lift the box off of the two lower bolts and the upper left side bolt to drop it down at an angle. The boxes are also tethered(the "loose" bolts on either side), I'm guessing for safety's sake, and to help control the amount of drop. One should be able to access the terminals and test the batteries individually. I didn't actually try this - just judging by what I saw while under there.

There were some other Sportsmobile details under there that left me less than impressed considering the amount of $ we spend for a "hand built" vehicle. When I look at some things I can't help but think that we pay for the highest quality craftsmanship, but get minimum wage work. Anyway, that's a completely different thread.

I'm happy to drive my van again and not wonder if I'll have to plug in to get it started.

Cheers,

Tim

jage · 05-22-2009, 10:49 AM

I've dropped my batteries on the tethers twice now, and replaced them once. The tethers work pretty well IMHO, and you only have to take one of the frame bolts out completely, the rest you can loosen and slide off (although putting them back makes for a difficult alignment.)

PatO · 05-22-2009, 07:51 PM

Yes now that I understand the slip bolts and tethers so cleaning/checking the connections once every 2 years or so shouldn't be as much work as this first time. I dropped the boxes all the out and did some corrosion treatment on them too. I think the rough off road I do caused extra leakage and subsequent corrosion.

SMBDAD · 05-30-2009, 07:09 PM

I am going to replace my house battery. While I am at it, I think it would be good to change out the starting batteries as well. Do the 2 starting batteries have to be the same? I was thinking about going with a good Oddyssey battery underneath.

scatter · 06-01-2009, 11:42 AM

SMBDAD, the two starting batteries need to be the same. Any batteries connected together either in series or parallel need to be matched. This means same age and size. You can mix 'em and they will work, but service life will be GREATLY reduced.

**daveb** · 06-01-2009, 01:49 PM

Odyssey batteries are fantastic batteries but very expensive. They are one of a few batteries that rate as both starting and deep cycle so they are really perfect of a SMB. If I wasn't in such a hurry to replace my starting batteries when one failed, I would have thought strongly about shoving a couple of those in. I just went back with standard wet cell batteries but I was in a hurry. And Scatter is correct; I ended up giving the good battery to my buddy who did most of the work changing those friggin things out.

pjpvi · 06-04-2009, 09:51 AM

You all jinxed me. My van has been cranking slower and slower over about the last 3 weeks. Finally not enough juice to start the van this morning. Guess I know what I'm doing Friday night .....

My house batteries are fine and I'm a little puzzled why everything didn't tie together as it should to start the van. Guess I need to look at the separator or isolator or whatever it is. I know there have been posts on that as well I'll have to look up.

This thread is now helpful to me!

Thanks -
Phil

SMBDAD · 06-04-2009, 02:08 PM

I am replacing both starter batteries as well. I just ordered two DEKA 9A34. They are a tad smaller, but did not like group size 65 at 60-70lbs per battery. I could not find any negative reviews. Lots of Diesel people are using them and loving them. Better than Optima, same quality as Diehard platinum and Oddyssey. Lower price than all three. $130 (with coupon code) delivered from Autobarn.