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Old 06-03-2020, 12:56 PM   #1
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Cracked coolant recovery bottle

Anybody have a good field fix for a cracked coolant bottle? I have a small pinhole crack spitting out coolant once up to operating temperature. New bottle is on order but I'd like to use the van tomorrow and am worried about the pressure.


Can I use the vehicle with the cracked tank provided the coolant level is OK?


I tried CA glue and it didn't bond. I think the bottle is made of polyethylene. Does anybody have an idea of some kind of glue to do a field fix? Epoxy? A+B putty or JB weld?


Thanks for any help.
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Old 06-03-2020, 01:16 PM   #2
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Unfortunately there really isn't much that will bond to polyethylene, including epoxies. Loctite 495 is supposed to work on it, but since you already tried a CA glue (which 495 is also) maybe the coolant contamination is enough to prevent it from working. Also, the operating temp is only 225F so it wouldn't hold long anyways in that application.

I also would not drive it more than a short drive, because without system pressure, you could boil over at temps normally ok for the 6.0.

Any idea why it cracked? Might not hurt to do a an exhaust gas test before you spend too much time fixing the bottle only.
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Old 06-03-2020, 02:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb View Post
Unfortunately there really isn't much that will bond to polyethylene, including epoxies. Loctite 495 is supposed to work on it, but since you already tried a CA glue (which 495 is also) maybe the coolant contamination is enough to prevent it from working. Also, the operating temp is only 225F so it wouldn't hold long anyways in that application.

I also would not drive it more than a short drive, because without system pressure, you could boil over at temps normally ok for the 6.0.

Any idea why it cracked? Might not hurt to do a an exhaust gas test before you spend too much time fixing the bottle only.

Well I just got it out of the shop for a IPR valve and after picking it up it up I didn't get 20 miles from the shop when it seemed the engine was running about 15 degrees warmer. The engine shut down and it had to get towed back to the shop. After it shut down it did start again and they even moved the vehicle daily in and out of the shop and it never failed to run. It did throw a code and they replaced ICP sensor but also found I had a bad water pump. I've been driving it for a few weeks w/o any trouble but the other day noticed a drip on the ground away from home. I'm also worried after finding the coolant was dripping on my after market air filter and it might be sucking up some of it.



That tank seems brittle and I don't know if they put their elbow in it or possible damaged it. The leak is about an inch away from the edge of the cap in the middle of the tank.
The engine was Bullet proofed about 20K miles ago. They did most of the standard bullet proofing head studs and what not, but used a stock oil cooler that I'm told is better than the 06 version.



I'll take your suggestion and not drive it until I change the tank. At least I got it home. Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-03-2020, 03:08 PM   #4
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Brittle tanks on the 6.0 are not uncommon, and it might have been accelerated if there was any coolant leak prior to bulletproofing, or even a bad cap. If your EGT/EOT are still tracking together, I think it's very unlikely that the new cooler would fail.

Definitely keep an eye on temps. If they still are running hot after the new water pump, there may be something else going on. Especially if the "bad" water pump doesn't have any impeller erosion.

You probably don't need to worry about it ingesting a small amount a coolant spray. I've had plenty of EGR coolers burst on me (and a burst radiator on my V10), and it doesn't seem to cause much issue, as long as you don't try to re-start one that sucked in enough to hydrolock.
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Old 06-04-2020, 05:07 AM   #5
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Thanks for the reminder, new part now ordered! Mine has some kind of a hole in it too and I keep forgetting to order a replacement. Been gambling for months now...

Mine seems brittle as well. Possibly result of extreme Underwood temps from oversized diesel motor crammed in tiny engine compartment?
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Old 06-04-2020, 08:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shenrie View Post

Mine seems brittle as well. Possibly result of extreme Underwood temps from oversized diesel motor crammed in tiny engine compartment?
The pickups were the same way. My theory is they are getting flashed with hot steam whenever there's any sort of loss in system pressure. I don't think it's a materials issue, since they are made the same as any other vehicle. Or maybe they get UV damage from the hood being up so much...
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Old 06-04-2020, 12:16 PM   #7
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Or maybe they get UV damage from the hood being up so much...
Lol, that was perfect...
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Old 06-04-2020, 01:15 PM   #8
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Thanks. Putting it in today if it arrives in time. The temps have been running fine for the last few weeks even with the leak and in hot weather. EOT/ECT are about 8 degrees off from each other once up to operating temps. Just glad I noticed the drip. Probably should replace the cap while I'm at it.
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Old 06-04-2020, 01:57 PM   #9
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Flex Tape?

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Old 06-04-2020, 01:58 PM   #10
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Is there an aftermarket bottle or must one replace with another Ford OEM part?
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