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Old 06-19-2015, 08:26 AM   #11
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Re: Dealer wants 430.00 to do spark plugs on a V10?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ANZAC
Is the one on the right the new P/N?

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Old 06-19-2015, 09:03 AM   #12
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Re: Dealer wants 430.00 to do spark plugs on a V10?

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Originally Posted by boywonder
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANZAC
Is the one on the right the new P/N?
Yes. Seat is in the same location so it doesn't protrude any further into combustion chamber. But if you have a newer rig than mine I suggest you verify the part number with a dealer.
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:24 AM   #13
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Re: Dealer wants 430.00 to do spark plugs on a V10?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ANZAC
Quote:
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Because E-Series never received the 3-valve heads "new" plugs don't really exist, the typical size and thread count on the plug body are more than sufficient.
No, they do -- the 2v plugs were updated, I forget when but it was around 2005 or 2006. I remember when I bought them for my 99 V10 I had to check I had the newer plug.
Sorry to confuse this topic but Anzac's info is correct. I've never used anything but the SP-479's which is where my mis-information arose.

Either way we're all mostly in agreement using MotorCraft plugs spec'd for your particular engine and year, avoid other brands except AutoLite.
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:06 AM   #14
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Re: Dealer wants 430.00 to do spark plugs on a V10?

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Sorry to confuse this topic but Anzac's info is correct. I've never used anything but the SP-479's which is where my mis-information arose.
Well at this point very few of the older vans would have the old style plugs still in them. I know my 2002 does (only 45,000 miles or something), I have just been putting off changing them because it is such a painful job!

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Old 02-12-2018, 07:15 PM   #15
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About a week ago, and with slightly more wrenching experience since I suggested I would not tackle this job myself, I ended up ignoring my own advice:



In my case I mostly needed to do the coils, but did the plugs while I had all the coils out.

I used SP-479 which matched what was in there before. They are plenty cheap on amazon at this point. I also went with Motorcraft DG508 coils, not cheap, but also not too bad from the same source.

I wrote down a couple more details here:

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...tml#post221618

The impetus for this was a misfire that I chased to a bad coil on #2. A quick visual inspection located another coil with some cracks, and pulling a third coil, the contact didn't look great on it anymore either, so I just replaced them all.

It really does run much more nicely now than it has in a while.
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Old 02-13-2018, 04:53 AM   #16
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About a week ago, and with slightly more wrenching experience since I suggested I would not tackle this job myself, I ended up ignoring my own advice:
How many miles on those removed plugs?
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:54 AM   #17
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How many miles on those removed plugs?
Unknown, but at least 30k. At most 160k.

When I got the van (30k ago), it came with a Ford remanufactured engine, that was installed at an unknown time, as well as a speedo that under-read some.

I would expect new plugs to have gone into the replacement engine whenever it went in. It's also possible that it got new plugs and boots at some other time, since it was fleet maintained while it was a news van.

Comparing them to a new plug, they have some wear, but also still plenty of life in them.

Obviously, this is all about the labor, the plugs cost me less then $40. The work took me about 5 hours total, which included about an hour and a half of fighting with the debris stuck in that one hole. So once a plug was out, installing a new one was the only choice.

Oh, if you don't use a borescope, an inspection mirror, a flashlight are mandatory. As is patience with the mirror. I used compressed air to blow out the holes, not sure what I would have done without it.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:03 AM   #18
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Is there any other work you guys would recommend doing while replacing the plugs on the V10?
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:19 AM   #19
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Check all your electric wiring and vacuum hoses for deterioration, broken clips, etc. Check all your intake plumbing, hose clamps, etc. for a good seal. Clean your MAF! That's easy anytime though. Also, the V10's have a big crater in the back, below the intake. It collects water on vans that sit and also collects rodent nests and leaves, etc. in general. Mine was a swamp when I found it. Engine heat alone is not enough to cook it all off if you don't drive your van a lot. Just check for it from the doghouse side. My experience could be the exception rather than the rule.

If you're going to do the plugs I would replace all coil boots and use dielectric grease on them.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lug+boot,10150
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:02 PM   #20
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+1 on all those. My valley was dry, but full of nuts. I did clean it out. But then we're in a bit of a drought here in CA.

Generally, try to blow / vacuum dirt / dust off the engine before removing anything. Perhaps even resort to washing it, it's not like you won't be pulling the coils.

MAF cleaner was ordered after I got one look at it after pulling it off, will use it when I do the clips.

I'd recommend taking a look at the harness connector clips before starting the job and perhaps just having them on hand. Although pulling the harness and fiddling with them could really be a separate job. -- It is for me, connectors are showing up this week.
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