Re: How Hard is it to replace Heater Core
Well as I mentioned a few posts up I be finding out soon on a replacement costs (NOT do it yourself). I was having trouble identifying the problem, for awhile I thought the puddles were just condensation from the defroster (dried clean) but I was losing coolant as noted by the degas bottle level. So I was procrastinating and it blew up on the way to work this morning. Steam coming out of the top and bottom of the dash. Once I ascertained it was steam and not smoke and it wasn't gushing out that bad I drove about 2 miles to my regular car mechanic. SO - $175 for the new core, $75 for 3 gallons gold, $40 bucks for a flush kit, $300 for core replacement labor, $32 for diagnostic pressure test (DUH - it's steaming) and $60 for the flush and re-pressure test. That should add up to about $700. So that is what you can save if you want to tackle it yourself. I didn't really need the flush but they didn't ask me on that. I only had 3000 miles since I had a flush and new coolant put in. I have to have cleanest cooling system in So Cal now.
The old core had a tiny hole on the edge of one of the aluminum end caps in the center next to what looked like a solder joint. Another round of applause for Job 1 quality; heater cores that only last 70K miles.
At this rate I'm never going to save any money to get myself an Aluminess Front Bumper. Maybe someone has a used for sale? hahaha
I'm glad this did not happen in Coyote Canyon two weeks ago.
My SMB carpeting is soaked on the passenger side. Need to figure how to pull that up and dry it out. Looks like the seat needs to be yanked.
2004 SMB 4x4 RB 6.0 PSD; ARP Head Studs, Gen 3 Cylinder Heads, BPD Oil Cooler connected to AMSOil Bypass, a whistling Wicked Wheel Turbo, Coolant Filter, Upgraded alternator, ScanGauge, SCT custom and SMB Fox shocks.
BFG 285/75 R16 KM3 Mud Terrains on ProComp 7069's