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02-09-2023, 08:29 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Lake Tahoe
Posts: 158
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Remove All Quigley Parts from Front End
I need to do a refresh on my Quigley front end and was hoping to better understand what it takes to remove all the Quigley parts and convert to standard F-series parts.
Looking at my build from Quigley it looks like the following are Quigley parts:
- Tie rod ends
- Brake rotors
- Hub bearings
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Based on my research on the forum here, and extremely limited understanding of how this all works, it seems that people swap to a Dyna Trac Freespin kit to eliminate the hub bearing....
Do standard F-series rotors work w that kit? And does that kit change my bolt pattern so I would need new wheels?
Sorry in advance for a stupid question, just not familiar with how all these parts interact w one another.
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02-09-2023, 10:32 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: boise idaho
Posts: 2,625
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Biggest disadvantage to your plan is the bolt pattern will need to change from 8x165, to the ford only 8x170. As long as your prepared for that, the rest was easy, at least for my quigley anyway.
I just bought off the shelf hub bearings and rotors from a f350 the same year of the front axle quigley used on my van (03). I didn’t need to do anything with the tie rod ends.
__________________
"understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of your car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of your car, horsepower is how hard your car hits the wall, and torque is how far your car moves the wall."
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02-09-2023, 01:41 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Santa Rosa, Ca
Posts: 90
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You also might want to check with Quadravan, their conversions use OEM Ford parts. They might be a resource also.
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02-09-2023, 02:21 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Francisco/Nevada City
Posts: 3,769
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What's the advantage?
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02-09-2023, 02:43 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Boulder, CO.
Posts: 2,554
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Remove All Quigley Parts from Front End
The unit bearings are a Ford thing, it is a wear and replace item, I eliminated my unit bearings and installed the Dynatrac free spin hub kit, which is serviceable, it also has the added advantage of, as the name suggests, free spinning, so you have less drag and less wear on the new bearings and in theory, get better fuel mileage.
Like Shenrie mentioned, you’ll have to be prepared to drop for a new set of wheels and tires as well as new rotors if you eliminate Quigley’s work up front to change back over to 8X170.
I left all that aspect of things intact on my rig, so still running 8X6.5, I opted to get a set of rotors from Frozen Rotors for the proper F350 fitment and I had them re-drilled locally to fit my 8X6.5 bolt pattern.
I also had adjustable torque arms installed to roll the front axle forward a bit to gain clearance for larger tires and had a new frame side track bar bracket made and installed to put the angle back to spec and for front diff clearance. A must is the RIP kit with properly valved Fox shocks from Agile.
Other mods performed on my rig-
Full float rear end installed, Deaver rear leaf springs installed as well as bagged for trailering duty. I’d opt for Alcan springs on the next go around.
__________________
'03 Ford E350 7.3L Diesel
(de)SMB'd Custom RB-50
Quigley 4X4 w/Deavers & Agile Offroad's R.I.P. package
CCV High Profile Pop Top
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02-09-2023, 07:53 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: boise idaho
Posts: 2,625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallypanam
What's the advantage?
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In a nutshell, average priced parts available at most any parts counter across the nation vs custom only available from one location parts that are twice the price and never available for purchase on the weekends.
__________________
"understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of your car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of your car, horsepower is how hard your car hits the wall, and torque is how far your car moves the wall."
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02-10-2023, 06:59 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Lake Tahoe
Posts: 158
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Thanks all for the input. Exactly @shenrie....I got jammed up once before needing Qugley rotors and it was a nightmare to get them while traveling. Hoping to avoid situations like that in the future if possible.
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02-10-2023, 12:32 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Francisco/Nevada City
Posts: 3,769
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For future reference... Quigley rotors (at least on the earlier designs) are off the shelf rotors with a small amount of material machined off the backside.. any shop with a lathe can knock it out real quick.
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02-10-2023, 02:43 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: boise idaho
Posts: 2,625
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^^^ yep. The rotors on my 03 fit right onto the non modified 8x170 hub unit when I converted mine. Even though the holes were augured out to accommodate the 8x165 bolt pattern the hub is what centers the rotor. So no real need to replace the rotors when converting unless they are below min spec to turn.
__________________
"understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of your car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of your car, horsepower is how hard your car hits the wall, and torque is how far your car moves the wall."
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02-11-2023, 01:49 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Maui & Montana
Posts: 97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REF
The unit bearings are a Ford thing, it is a wear and replace item, I eliminated my unit bearings and installed the Dynatrac free spin hub kit, which is serviceable, it also has the added advantage of, as the name suggests, free spinning, so you have less drag and less wear on the new bearings and in theory, get better fuel mileage.
Like Shenrie mentioned, you’ll have to be prepared to drop for a new set of wheels and tires as well as new rotors if you eliminate Quigley’s work up front to change back over to 8X170.
I left all that aspect of things intact on my rig, so still running 8X6.5, I opted to get a set of rotors from Frozen Rotors for the proper F350 fitment and I had them re-drilled locally to fit my 8X6.5 bolt pattern.
I also had adjustable torque arms installed to roll the front axle forward a bit to gain clearance for larger tires and had a new frame side track bar bracket made and installed to put the angle back to spec and for front diff clearance. A must is the RIP kit with properly valved Fox shocks from Agile.
Other mods performed on my rig-
Full float rear end installed, Deaver rear leaf springs installed as well as bagged for trailering duty. I’d opt for Alcan springs on the next go around.
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-Who installed your adjustable torque arms?
-by moving the axle forward what other changes were required?
I would like to do that to my Quigley because I want to replace the original torque arms anyway.
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