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11-02-2016, 11:03 AM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 4,072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shenrie
but locating the correct rotor might be.
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check out F series rotors at Rockauto.com...guess at a few model years......some have little diagrams with a few pertinent dimensions on them...compare them to the quigley rotors you have...I understand that there is some machining work required to fit on a quigley.
Can your rotors be turned? That's the fast, easy straightforward way....
__________________
2008 E350 RB passenger 4WD SMB penthouse
2013 KTM 350 EXC
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2003 Honda Element
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11-02-2016, 11:13 AM
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#52
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Francisco/Nevada City
Posts: 3,769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shenrie
rally what year is your van?
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Mine's a 2001 kingpin 60. Quigley should be able to give you easily sourced part numbers.. As far as I know the only custom things on the entire front are the control arms, one drag link end, and the rotors need a little machining inside to clear the ABS sensor.. Everything else is off the shelf.
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11-02-2016, 12:06 PM
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#53
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: OH
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallypanam
Mine's a 2001 kingpin 60. Quigley should be able to give you easily sourced part numbers.. As far as I know the only custom things on the entire front are the control arms, one drag link end, and the rotors need a little machining inside to clear the ABS sensor.. Everything else is off the shelf.
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'Should be', that was my impression also
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2011 V10 E350 XLT SD Quigley/AOR (RIP'd)
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11-02-2016, 12:32 PM
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#54
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Francisco/Nevada City
Posts: 3,769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Annie O
'Should be', that was my impression also
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I'd actually upgrade that to definitely. Unless someone changed components since it left the factory, Sabrina can give you definitive part numbers for everything.
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11-02-2016, 12:33 PM
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#55
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: boise idaho
Posts: 2,625
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thanks rally.
Quote:
Originally Posted by boywonder
Can your rotors be turned? That's the fast, easy straightforward way....
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bw, that was the question as the guy at big o couldn't id the rotor and I hadn't talked with Quigley yet. so he couldn't determine if it was or wasn't within spec. he did say my pads had about 15% left and since I needed new bearings on the drivers side, that raised the question on how to proceed.
so after talking to Quigley apparently my van is outfitted with all 00-04 f350 stuff (13.5 rotors, hubs, calipers) with the hub and rotors redrilled to the 8x165 pattern. so its a rotor over hub design already. this has yet to be confirmed as im super pressed for free time right now to even dick with it. if this is actually the case, my only real option (due to thin wallet issues) is to buy the f350 replacement hub and have it redrilled to the 8x165 bolt pattern.
a few pix from changing a flat tire in the am jobs parking lot for lunch
__________________
"understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of your car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of your car, horsepower is how hard your car hits the wall, and torque is how far your car moves the wall."
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11-02-2016, 12:37 PM
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#56
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 4,072
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Shenrie: No min rotor thickness stamped on that rotor? wire brush......
__________________
2008 E350 RB passenger 4WD SMB penthouse
2013 KTM 350 EXC
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2003 Honda Element
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11-02-2016, 12:42 PM
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#57
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: boise idaho
Posts: 2,625
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working a full time and a part time job right now. don't even got time to pick my damn nose right now. second job might allow me to pull in and dick with this for a bit tonight though. ill update once I have a chance to really put some eyes on it.
__________________
"understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of your car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of your car, horsepower is how hard your car hits the wall, and torque is how far your car moves the wall."
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11-02-2016, 02:30 PM
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#58
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: OH
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallypanam
I'd actually upgrade that to definitely. Unless someone changed components since it left the factory, Sabrina can give you definitive part numbers for everything.
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Right, I just looked at my Quigly issued parts list and it has PN down to the bolt thread cut- haha only interesting to some of us.
Anyhow I have a copy of PN list in my vehicle already. Sounds like many older rigs have had mods and alterations along the way, from the sounds of the Quigley brakes threads.
Thanks!
__________________
2011 V10 E350 XLT SD Quigley/AOR (RIP'd)
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11-02-2016, 02:33 PM
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#59
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: OH
Posts: 518
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Shenrie- LOL dont overthink it!! Sounds like you got it. Ive been there where you are too busy to think between work, home, maybe family...
__________________
2011 V10 E350 XLT SD Quigley/AOR (RIP'd)
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11-02-2016, 07:48 PM
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#60
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: boise idaho
Posts: 2,625
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^^^ i dont count on nuttin till its bolted back together and im driving away with new parts and theres no funny noises... force of habit. been "modifying" crap for a lot of years. nothing is certain, lol.
second job let me put truck on rack and mess with it tonight. rotor min thickness stamped on back of rotor was 36.0. mine measure 38.8. good there, but pads are toast. thats a little relief at least. any recommendations on pads? i prefer softer pads that dont chew up rotors. dont care about dusting issues.
just so happens an instructor here has a 01 f250 7.3 and happens to be a certified ford tech familiar with the trucks. he handed me the keys and said pull it in and take a tire off if you need to. sweet! put calipers on everything and most all critical pieces are identical to mine with the exception of lug studs. looks like quigley off center drilled the 8x170 holes on the hubs instead of just doing an additional set of holes, then inserted larger shanked lug studs. then they just over drilled the rotors to fit studs. thats not an issue because the rotors seat on the hub quite snug.
so i think what im going to do is order some hubs and talk to the machine shop here and ask what would be easier for them to drill out. the original holes off center or another set opposite of the 8x170 pattern. found out today i can order whatever i want through the school as long as i have them tax it first. should save me some serious coin and leave me a little jingle in mah pockets
ill keep you all posted with my findings.
__________________
"understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of your car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of your car, horsepower is how hard your car hits the wall, and torque is how far your car moves the wall."
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