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Old 06-09-2016, 09:00 PM   #11
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Another thing you can do to make removing the pins (if just replacing them) is to tie the springs off when the top is part way up, then jack the top the rest of the way. The spring load is then off the bars and on your lashing...I have an old post describing it but this is the idea...it was born out of desperation (no come-along) with a broken bolt in the wilds of E Ca deserts...Jacking/lifting the top really isnt that difficult with 4 2X4s...
The issue is the tension load the springs put on the bars needs to be eliminated.....

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Old 06-10-2016, 02:21 PM   #12
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Another thing you can do to make removing the pins (if just replacing them) is to tie the springs off when the top is part way up, then jack the top the rest of the way. The spring load is then off the bars and on your lashing...I have an old post describing it but this is the idea...it was born out of desperation (no come-along) with a broken bolt in the wilds of E Ca deserts...Jacking/lifting the top really isnt that difficult with 4 2X4s...
The issue is the tension load the springs put on the bars needs to be eliminated.....
Thanks for the tip. I did a test run with the come-along, bottle jacks, and blocking and it was super easy! Come along will become a permanent kit addition in the van though incase some carnage happens on the road. Unfortunately I had to take it all down b/c I forgot I had to take the van in for a smog check to renew my registration. Yay California!

At least the exercise gave me an opportunity to test the spring adjustments. I took an extra link off each side of the chain so its hooked on the 5th link now to compensate for the extra weight of an Aluminess rack and 320 watts of Solar. I can lift it prett easily my self now. I think I need to cut a few of the extra chain links off now b/c the slack doesn't fit well in the track and I don't want it to accidentally bind.

Now I get to do it all over again next weekend.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:48 PM   #13
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If you are removing the crossbars to straighten consider sleeving them with Cro-Mo tubing. IIRC you need 3/4" OD tubing.....you have lots of weight up there, and while they are apart........

Both the tubing and shoulder screws are available from McMaster-Carr or perhaps locally depending on where you live.

Since the pivot holes in my crossbars with getting egged out, I enlarged the holes to 5/16" and used 5/16" shoulder screws.

Here is the section of my build thread about the shoulder screws and sleeving the crossbars....starting at post #30

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...p-10808-3.html
On closer inspection, it appears that the previous owner sleeved the tubes with steel pipe. Nice to know that they are reinforced. I'll feel better once i get the pins replaced.

Can you share the dimensions of the nylon spacer upgrade that you used? I was having trouble finding the right ones on the McMaster website.

Thanks again!

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Old 10-29-2016, 06:07 PM   #14
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I finally got around to blocking up the top gain and started the process of removing the bent pins and replacing with 5/16's shoulder screws and the better shaped half moon plastic bushings.

Now the fun began. trying to get this bent clovis pin out was a nightmare b/c it was pushed in towards the canvas making it difficult to punch it out. Now I'm stuck b/c when I got the first pin out the holes in the bars are now mis-aligned by about a qtr inch.

Any tips on how to get the new pins in? Can you just muscle the alignment with 2 people? better yet if any ones local to Encinitas that likes beer and is down for a little proj i'd be eternally grateful. trying to get the rig dialed in before the snow flies.







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Old 10-29-2016, 06:16 PM   #15
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Any tips on how to get the new pins in? Can you just muscle the alignment with 2 people? better yet if any ones local to Encinitas that likes beer and is down for a little proj i'd be eternally grateful. trying to get the rig dialed in before the snow flies.

Did you read post #11? Look at my earlier posts on this for additional detail. The spring (un)loaded bars should basically be floating on the bottom if you have the top supported....
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:32 PM   #16
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I'm hanging out at my buddies ranch in escondido watching his mutt (and working on my van!) until tomorrow night...I can probably stop by and help you if still need assistance.
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:39 PM   #17
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Yup, I completely removed the springs with the come-a-long. The top is blocked up with 2x4's. I got one of the pins out, but just can't get the holes to line up. should I try a ratchet strap? I've read some posts about people trying those.
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:55 PM   #18
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I'm hanging out at my buddies ranch in escondido watching his mutt (and working on my van!) until tomorrow night...I can probably stop by and help you if still need assistance.

Pm'd you if you have time I'd be stoked.
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Old 10-29-2016, 08:18 PM   #19
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PM'd you back..........
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:39 AM   #20
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Brett218,

Did you and Boywonder get your penthouse put back together?

One of my pins looked exactly like that when I replaced them. It took me and one other guy to muscle the cross bars to line them up and get the pin back in place. It wasn't too bad though. Once you have the top blocked up, just muscle them together and work the pin in. Only took a few minutes.

Hope you got it done, if not, find some help and I don't think it'll be too hard.

Mike
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