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Old 08-05-2008, 03:45 PM   #1
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Rewiring the windows

No, not the peecee operating system.

I am SO tired of having to key the ignition every time I want to open or close the windows while parked. Has anyone wired them to work all the time?
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:45 PM   #2
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Yeah, I hear you on needing the key to work the windows. I've rewired all my rigs so the key is not needed. The problem with all the different rigs, is that I can't remember exactly what I did on the SMB for the rewire. If I remember correctly I removed the switch panel in the armrest and lifted it up to expose the window and mirror wiring. I then cut the hot lead to the windows and tied it into the power mirror switch. For some reason, Ford had the mirrors hot all the time, but not the windows. Worked fine on an '07. Ya gotta watch it though, I did that on a Jeep XJ and even though the windows worked all the time, so did the clock in the radio. Good way to run down a battery. Had to install a seperate switch on that one. Anyway, easiest way is to just open up the armrest panel and find the hot to the windows (check for power with the key on and off to get the right wire) and then find the hot side to the mirrors and tie the window switch into that. On mine, the wire size was fine for the additional power draw. Good luck.
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:55 PM   #3
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Damn good report, Scatter. Thanks!
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Old 08-24-2008, 10:41 AM   #4
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Unfortunately, none of that worked. The hot to the mirrors was easy to find (orange), and there are TWO wires that get hot with key-on going to the windows . Don't know why there isn't just one that feeds both window controls. Why did you cut these rather than just jump them to the mirror hot? I did that, and the window switch worked for one second before apparently blowing a fuse, which I have not found yet. Now the mirrors don't work. And, there's the doorlock on/off right next to the window clusterfk with an always hot lead. I tried connecting to that, and instead of the powerlock operating the windows, the window rocker switches simply ran the powerlocks! What a ****ing mess!! A ten minute job turned into a search & rescue.

I need a better description of what to connect, including wire colors. Can anyone help me???
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:12 PM   #5
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The mirrors are on a 5A fuse (F2.17) and the windows/door locks use a 20A fuse (F2.42). The two wires are for the Driver's door and for the Passenger door switches. The power windows draw significant power and it makes sense they would blow the 5A fuse. Probably Ford turned off the window power except in Run and ACC is to protect the battery. If something was pressing on the window switch, it would continue to draw power until the starting battery went dead.

Both fuses are in the same place, the Central Junction Box which is located below and to the left of the steering column. You might be able to switch the windows (Red/Light Blue) from fuse 2.42 to fuse 2.40 (Violet/Orange wire) to give power at all times.

The above is from a 2005 E-Series Wiring Diagram book.

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Old 08-24-2008, 12:51 PM   #6
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Thanks, Mike. I just ordered (online, pdf) the wiring diagram for an '06, hopefully the same as '07, so I can understand what the 2.4 & 2.42 designations mean. If it has to do with changing the connection of a wire to the fuse panel, I'm afraid that is impossible .. There is no access to the rear side of the fuse panel. That is a good idea in theory.
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:27 PM   #7
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Well, now Jeffrey you're trying to make me feel bad ... and it worked. I went out and opened up the van to see how I wired it up. On the 07 SMB I did it differently then I thot I remembered. I found I had to add 12V to the red wire with the blue stripe on the power window switch. My solution to get enough amps to the switch was to go behind the hood release lever where the door wire loom comes in from the door and cut the aforementioned red/blue wire. I capped off the end that continues on and spliced a wire onto the end that comes from the door. I then found +12V in the large loom above and to the left of the brake pedal. Way back up in the far reaches. That loom is about 1-1/4"
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Old 08-24-2008, 03:01 PM   #8
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Thanks, Scat. I really needed to know what wire powered the switch cluster. I have +12v available behind my lower panel that has SMB installed switches for the compressor, etc. I will look for the red/blue wire.

Thanks mucho,

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Old 08-26-2008, 01:48 PM   #9
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Got it!!

Miraculously, I found the correct wire and tied it into a hot point. Finally.

In the process I blew the fuse for the mirrors, which were the first power point I tried. Then I tied into the air compressor hot, which I found to be keyed, and blew that fuse while I was at it. Finally, I tied into the backup/rear light circuit, which SMB tied into an always hot lead.

But there's more...

The backup lights circuit uses a 15 amp fuse, which is fine for operating a window, but not TWO. Typically, I open and close both windows simultaneously. Blew the fuse! I put in a 20. All is well, for now. Maybe my windows will work long enough for me to re-install the Espar heater in a few days.
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Old 08-26-2008, 05:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffrey
Got it!!
Blew the fuse! I put in a 20. All is well, for now.
Not to ask a dumb question, but, Can you safely do that? I mean simply bump up the fuse size. I'm no electrician, but doesn't the wire size come into play? If you bump the fuse size up and the wire is sized and bundled to work with a 15A fuse, then heat is going to be generated, potentially to the point where things start melting. For instance a 110v 15A house circuit can be 14g wire. If you bump the fuse to 20A, the wire needs to be 12g. Or perhaps the wire size is sufficient to handle the 20A and I should just shut up.

Just asking...
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