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05-21-2008, 11:52 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,071
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Diff Question
A couple of basic questions:
When replacing fluid in the front and rear differentials do you remove the covers?
I have a leak on my front diff so I assume the I need to take this cover off. When replacing it, do I just use silicone or is there an actual gasket that needs to be purchased?
Thanks
steve
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'05 Ford V-10 4x4 SMB "50" White
'00 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 Highly Modified
'04 Jeep Grand Cherokee- wife won't let me modify it. :-(
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05-22-2008, 08:25 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 7,644
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With a leak you definitely take the cover off. Scrape all the gasket material off and make sure both surfaces are smooth (no major pits or scratches). Some people use brake cleaner.
I usually let it sit with no cover for a few hours and then wipe out the bottom of the diff, as there will be a little pool of fluid. Haven't done the dynatrack but it should be similar.
You can use gasket maker in a tube or get a gasket from Dynatrack (if there is such a thing?) since the D60 is "shaved" the pumpkin is a no standard size, so I doubt Autozone will have the right gasket.
I usually do a thin bead of gasket sealer on each side of the gasket- it makes it easier to put into place too (stick gasket to one side and then place cover and insert bolts).
Tighten bolts on opposite sides several times, round-robin, like lug nuts or an engine head. This makes sure the cover goes down flat.
On your rear you probably want to do the same thing, although the gasket should be readily available (even those with the full floater D60). Removing the cover isn't necessary, but it allows you to inspect things and put a new gasket/seal in place.
If you don't want to remove the cover you can use a vacuum bottle to suck out most of the diff fluid and refill. If you don't have access to a gasket or have recently replaced the gasket this is a much easier fluid change.
I usually leave it for awhile to let the new gasket material set up and then fill until it weeps out the fill hole.
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05-22-2008, 08:27 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 7,644
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Also, you can get a rundown of what gasket maker or gasket sealer you need at Autozone, Pepboys, Napa or wherever, but use specific gasket products not silicone...
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05-22-2008, 09:02 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Washington - Ridgefield
Posts: 4,728
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Another way to hold the gasket in place is to take a couple of bolts that fit the cover and remove the heads. Then screw them into the housing, hang the gasket on those two homemade studs, install the cover and some real bolts. Then you can remove the studs and finish the job.
Works for most automotive gaskets.
Mike
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Prostate cancer survivor. See Thread Prostate cancer and Sportsmobiles
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2012 E250 Hitop camper
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05-22-2008, 09:07 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chicagoland
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You can make your own gasket. Raw material is sold in sheets. A razor and ball peen hammer can cut you new a gasket
http://www.dansmc.com/gaskets.htm
I shy away from any form in place gasket. The adhesion is strong, but the internal strength and durability is poor. That is the reason that today you do not see silicone much...it is a cost savings, not a seal improvement.
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05-22-2008, 10:42 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 7,644
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Interesting. I would definitly add a small wood block between the hammer and the gasket/part. It will still imprint on the gasket, but the wood won't damage or round the part edge.
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05-22-2008, 01:15 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Washington - Ridgefield
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmocken
I shy away from any form in place gasket. The adhesion is strong, but the internal strength and durability is poor. That is the reason that today you do not see silicone much...it is a cost savings, not a seal improvement.
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The biggest problem with form in place gaskets is people use too much and then pieces break off and block oil passages inside.
Mike
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Alaska to Key West, Labrador and more
Prostate cancer survivor. See Thread Prostate cancer and Sportsmobiles
2015 VW GTI 2020 Fiat 124 Spider
2012 E250 Hitop camper
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05-22-2008, 01:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Normandy Park, WA
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Steve,
One thing that wasn't mentioned is when replacing the oil in the rear diferential you will need to add friction modifyer if you have a limited slip. This should be on the shelf at the auto parts store next to the gear lube. Check you manual to see the amount you need.
John
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'08 SMB 4X4 6.0PSD EB 50 (96K)
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05-22-2008, 05:40 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Carmel Valley, CA
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In reply to Jage- The point is: NOT using the wood block. If you use the small ball pein hammer judiciously, you can cut out the entire gasket by carefully using the sharp edges of the casting as backing thus ending up with a perfect gasket. Even the holes can be cut this way with the ball end. You aren't trying to mark the gasket material, but rather, actually cut it. You won't damage the metal surfaces if you hit it only just hard enough to score the material. (Lots of little taps). Mechanics have been making gaskets that way forever.
Bill
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2008 RB 50 Pueblo gold, Diesel, 4X4, Aluminess
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05-23-2008, 07:34 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,071
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Thanks very much everyone.The garage I go to said they were going to use the form in place but I told them to hold off. I am going try to make one myself if I cannot get one from Dynatrac. Also thanks for the heads up on the friction modifier.
I really appreciate it!
steve
__________________
'05 Ford V-10 4x4 SMB "50" White
'00 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 Highly Modified
'04 Jeep Grand Cherokee- wife won't let me modify it. :-(
Does anyone really read this stuff other than surfgeek?
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