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Old 04-06-2024, 11:26 AM   #1
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Heater core?

I have an 06 6.0 and I'm getting a bit of coolant oder in the cabin.
I have to assume it's a heater core starting to go...
Just how bad is replacing one of these in this body style?
I've done cores that took an hour and I've done cores that took ten hours.
Just curious before I dive in...

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Old 04-06-2024, 12:20 PM   #2
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I've never done it on one of these vans, but I just looked it up.
It only calls for 1.5 hours, and looks like its easily accessible above the passneger knee bar.


One of the easier heater cores out there.
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Old 04-06-2024, 12:27 PM   #3
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pretty self explanatory once you look at it, I'll try to attach the R&R procedures in a .pdf


See if this works...
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File Type: pdf heater core.pdf (127.1 KB, 17 views)
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Old 04-06-2024, 01:28 PM   #4
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https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...e+replacement+
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Old 04-08-2024, 08:24 AM   #5
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That video is fairly accurate in how this is done, used a lot of the lessons I've learned over three of the E-Series heater cores. Depending on the year I would renew the Quick Connect fittings attaching the heater hoses to the core even if it means standing the expense of factory hoses and fittings. These become brittle with age and almost regardless how carefully they're handled they can break during the core R&I or shortly after having it all back together. Hoses with those fittings already installed are available, I used Ford OEM because I'm a snob that way.

The white plastic QD clips holding the hose assemblies AND the o-rings should also be replaced at this time, again OEM. Dorman does make QD connectors which you use normal heater hose to make those connections---find them on the Dorman site.

They do make tools to aid removing the engine side Quick Connect fittings but honestly using the arc joint pliers as shown works well too---it was how I did my first one of these!

I remove the doghouse completely, consider removing the passenger seat including base if you're slightly claustrophobic as I am. This would require a T-55 PLUS insert bit and a medium-length 18mm socket. I add a bit of anti-seize on these fastener's threads for ease of removal once again if that should ever be necessary.

Otherwise for the most part the video here is as good a guide as I've seen on this task. FWIW the workshop manual calls for removing the entire dash board which takes quite a bit long than that 1.5 R&I time---up to 10 or more!

Feel free to PM me if that would be helpful----we could speak by phone.

Good luck with this!
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Old 04-08-2024, 10:53 AM   #6
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I posted the factory procedure above, no mention of pulling the dash.
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Old 04-08-2024, 11:27 AM   #7
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I did it some years ago on my previous 98 E250. It was not a pleasant task IIRC and was not as easy as I expected. The notes JWA posted are spot on (as always). For me the "quick connect" was the roadblock, as I could just not get it disconnected, even with the fancy tool I bought - they are "quick connects," not "quick disconnects"! I don't 100% remember what I ended up doing, but I think I just ended up cutting the hose and pulling the whole assembly out from inside the van (but again, memory is fuzzy or maybe I blocked the trauma).


Here's my old thread, which has a lot of useful advice from other forum members and some pics I took: https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ide-22477.html
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Old 04-10-2024, 07:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbeefy View Post
I posted the factory procedure above, no mention of pulling the dash.
Yes it would seem the factory procedure has been updated since my first WSM from the late 90's.

When I did my first heater core a full time mechanic friend advised me how to avoid pulling the dash and it went fairly well.

I myself found later on the Quick Disconnect fittings are much easier to R&I if the philosophy behind their operation is understood---too many misconceptions about how to deal with them.
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Old 04-10-2024, 07:19 AM   #9
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I think the look on the guy's face in the video link above pretty much sums it up.
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Old 04-14-2024, 11:44 AM   #10
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Antifreeze Smell

I had the same smell. It turned out to be the top radiator tank seal between plastic tank and aluminum core. In the process of replacing now. Minimal coolant loss but strong smell after a hard run.
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