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07-11-2017, 03:54 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Peninsula
Posts: 809
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For mounting an eu, I found these guys: https://www.rvgeneratorbox.com/ They sell on amazon as well, but have not seen one in person.
My van has a generator box on the side, for an onan-ish unit, that's not tall enough for a eu2000i. I'm debating extending it downward (it's semi-open to the bottom), or building a box for a swing out arm. Either way, I'm using this as an excuse to finally buy a welder.
I don't disagree with wanting something smaller, but at this point the obvious options are an 11k BTU or larger roof top unit, or adopting a smaller window unit into a window or wall opening. The latter looks a bit seedy, but is perfectly functional.
__________________
'99 EB ex ENG KSWB news van, low rent 4x4 conversion (mostly fixed by now), home built interior.
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07-11-2017, 05:04 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 10,254
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I did this on Rusty, and actually on my van before that. The less marketed Coleman Polar Cub is a 9500 BTU slimline rooftop unit that starts and runs great on a Honda 2000. It was plenty to cool my Colorado Camper Van high top EB Ford.
COLEMAN POLAR CUB RV ROOF AIR CONDITIONER Top Unit - $669.99
I also had my generator mounted on the back of my last SMB in an angle steel/sheet metal box I built and I could run it mounted. Vent holes in the top bottom and sides for breathing, exhaust and to get to the cord and knobs. It worked great but vibrates the van a lot. In my next build I plan to have a bigger inverter for microwave, carry the Honda in the back and lock it to a nearby tree if if I need to use it. These things are amazingly quiet a short distance away.
This worked though, Bemerritt, and will give you some idea of what you can build even if you are a lousy welder like me.
Sorry for the diversion since this doesn't answer the OP's question. There are lots of ways to run AC in these vans but the portable units with the drain hose and all would be the last resort for me. Too big and heavy and too much to deal with.
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07-11-2017, 05:31 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Peninsula
Posts: 809
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Am I seeing this correctly that you just bolted that box/rack to the door? Any issues with the door taking that load?
I was expecting to have to go with a bumper mounted swing arm. Likely using a trailer hub as a pivot. I suppose having it on the bumper/frame rather than the body might help with vibration....
I agree on putting a ways away from the van when camped. However, after sweating on the i5 last week, I do wonder about being able to run it once in a while while driving.
__________________
'99 EB ex ENG KSWB news van, low rent 4x4 conversion (mostly fixed by now), home built interior.
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07-11-2017, 05:55 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
Posts: 25
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This is how I carry my EU2000 , the base plate for the LowPro Lockdown is welded to a 24" hitch extension. The short mast you see has a threaded coupler to which a fiberglass mast attaches which supports a silicon exhaust terminating above the raised PH. AC is the cheapo Walmart kind, the installation of which I owe to this great forum.
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07-11-2017, 06:46 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Peninsula
Posts: 809
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That's a bunch of good info, to get back to OP's question:
I would not recommend a portable unit. They are inherently less efficient, since they put the hot side (the condenser) into the same space that you're trying to cool.
__________________
'99 EB ex ENG KSWB news van, low rent 4x4 conversion (mostly fixed by now), home built interior.
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07-11-2017, 10:37 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 10,254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadScience
Am I seeing this correctly that you just bolted that box/rack to the door? Any issues with the door taking that load?
I was expecting to have to go with a bumper mounted swing arm. Likely using a trailer hub as a pivot. I suppose having it on the bumper/frame rather than the body might help with vibration....
I agree on putting a ways away from the van when camped. However, after sweating on the i5 last week, I do wonder about being able to run it once in a while while driving.
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Yes, that is the old way an SMB factory spare was mounted. I mimicked the driver's side where the spare was on my van and built an identical A frame with long bolts that go through the thick steel hinges of the door. It wasn't ideal to drill holes in my door but it was cheap and effective at the time, and my rig was old anyway. As for stress on the door it really wasn't bad. I could occasionally notice a sag in it at times but it wasn't bent up and leaking or anything. I'd do it again but for the door hole drilling. By the way, I did run the generator while driving once or twice with this setup and you couldn't tell it was running. Road noise and vibration paired with the generator being far behind me and I didn't know it was there.
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07-12-2017, 11:31 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadScience
That's a bunch of good info, to get back to OP's question:
I would not recommend a portable unit. They are inherently less efficient, since they put the hot side (the condenser) into the same space that you're trying to cool.
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Agreed and the awkward size and necessary 3" duct & drain hose are just too much. The window unit became the best portable, more portable (stores under my bed) solution.
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07-12-2017, 01:57 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 10,254
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Nicely done FXRQ!
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07-12-2017, 07:52 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Sandy, Utah
Posts: 418
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My van came with a propane run generator mounted under the van in the spate tire location, it's all wired up with electric start and I just have to push a button inside it works great. Not my design but I quite like it as it's super easy to fire up if I need to microwave something and if I eventually get my rear starcool looked at and working I imagine it will be quite dreamy.
I guess these are not directly related to the original thread but seem to be relevant to where it's going if it helps anyone.
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