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'Nitrogen filled' is just a method by which air bubbles are kept out of the oil, for a better damper. The pressure is so low, it doesn't effect steering centering, that gas pressure wont cause a 'too stiff' feeling, it's damper valving that will make a damper too stiff. I would imagine a steering damper would come with a pretty standard valving and oil weight, for a full size truck or van.
Most high-end damper like Fox 2.0, HAL, Strange, Koni, have a threaded bulkhead that comes apart with a special spanner, for 're-valving'.
Off-road vendors will often work with a shock manufacturer or distributor and develop their own proprietary valving for a say a generic Fox 2.0, but custom valved for say, an e-series van with camper interior. You pay a premium for the damper, compared tot he generic Fox 2.0 because it comes with proprietary valving (Which is fair, since the shop who worked with the manufacturer spent time and money doing the R&D trial an error on their own dime). Again, I wouldn't imagine anything too far 'off the reservation' was used for a steering damper, unless your damper got mixed up with a stiff set of shocks, some parts guy grabbed the wrong one, Fox used shock valving instead of steering damper valving on the one you wound up with?
A little off topic: I've purchased several sets of race shocks that were re-valved for my specific needs, there's a huge difference. I've also sent in shocks to have them re-valved, and I'll say it's pretty 'hit-or-miss' depending on who you are working with, how well you can communicate what attribute you want more, or less of. Believe it or not, 'shock consulting' is a thing, where an expert will spend a day at the track or offroad testing grounds, working with teams to get into the 'Goldie Locks zone' of suspension tuning. My only experience with shock tuning and selection has been with drag race cars, there's a lot to know, and I've only scratched the surface.
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1995 E350 7.3 Diesel, 4x4 high roof camper, UJOR 4" lift
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Threaded Mode
