Quigley oversized front rotors & bearing question.

[yvrr]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaBallard

So how often do you have to repack your hubs?

Quigley says every 15,000 miles. I asked the Ford service manager and he said every 15,000 to 25,000 miles. So I'm aiming at every 20,000 miles.

I assumed that the wheel bearings were being repacked during every brake job (that was standard before disc brakes) and of course they weren't. We ended up replacing the left spindle, and both bearings and races at around 87,000 after the left spindle failed while on a trip. An expensive repair which included three days in a motel and having the parts air freighted in.

[yvrr]

Originally Posted by carringb

YFinally, what do you mean by "oversized quigley rotors"?

I was confused by that issue for years also. I had to replace the front rotors on our van at around 25,000 miles (using the brakes too much on long downhills rather than downshifting) and I contacted Quigley about replacement rotors. You could buy them from the same source Quigley used and that company would ship them to Quigley to be "machined due to the ABS unit" or something. When I had them replaced recently, I learned (I think) that the surface of the rotors needed to be machined to clear the ABS unit.

[rallypanam]

Originally Posted by yvrr

I was confused by that issue for years also. I had to replace the front rotors on our van at around 25,000 miles (using the brakes too much on long downhills rather than downshifting) and I contacted Quigley about replacement rotors. You could buy them from the same source Quigley used and that company would ship them to Quigley to be "machined due to the ABS unit" or something. When I had them replaced recently, I learned (I think) that the surface of the rotors needed to be machined to clear the ABS unit.

Yeah, there is a little notch on the inside that needs to be machined out. Quigley can do it for you, or give you the specs to have your local neighborhood machinist do it.

[StraightOuttaBallard]

Originally Posted by yvrr

I was confused by that issue for years also. I had to replace the front rotors on our van at around 25,000 miles (using the brakes too much on long downhills rather than downshifting) and I contacted Quigley about replacement rotors. You could buy them from the same source Quigley used and that company would ship them to Quigley to be "machined due to the ABS unit" or something. When I had them replaced recently, I learned (I think) that the surface of the rotors needed to be machined to clear the ABS unit.

Sabrina from Quigley explained that the special "ticking" (not the technical term) had to be modified to work with the ABS sensor

I know the part number and that they are 5 days out from Quigley...

Yes exactly what rallypanam said:

Originally Posted by rallypanam

Yeah, there is a little notch on the inside that needs to be machined out. Quigley can do it for you, or give you the specs to have your local neighborhood machinist do it.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by yvrr

We ended up replacing the left spindle, and both bearings and races at around 87,000 after the left spindle failed while on a trip. An expensive repair which included three days in a motel and having the parts air freighted in.

I had to replace left wheel bearings and spindle on my Dana 60...just happened to find the spindle scored when doing the brake upgrade.....about 88,000 miles on the van at the time.......consensus was from water intrusion...that's apparently why the hubs are sometimes fully packed with grease...to displace water.....

[StraightOuttaBallard]

Originally Posted by boywonder

I had to replace left wheel bearings and spindle on my Dana 60...just happened to find the spindle scored when doing the brake upgrade.....about 88,000 miles on the van at the time.......consensus was from water intrusion...that's apparently why the hubs are sometimes fully packed with grease...to displace water.....

That's interesting, and good to know about fully packing the bearings - usually if a bearing is jammed up w/grease then it dosnt function right and fails prematurelyl... some of the youngsters at work did this to a motor operated gate valve - you could hear the gurgling ...

Water immersion on a unsealed wheel bearing suspends like a different case ...

I did part of a stage race on a Mtn bike a few months back ... And when my hubs freebody, cassette, and cranks went under 36" of h2o, despite sealed bearings I knew from past experience that water + unusual torque can still seize bearings ... even if sealed.

Now that I think of it, I'm getting bearing crunch sound/feel out of one of my front hubs on my Jeep XJ ... And they are sealed ... I've put 44k on that rig in all sorts of conditions ... Trying to fix & sell it... though I think there is a way to reuse the Smittybuilt winch in the E350

[tenmile]

a.) I have the same issue you do with the AIC and Data Link. It's fuse 23 under the dash- 20Amp. There's no rhyme or reason as to when it blows, but it's generally when I'm trying to hook a scan tool to it. I notice the AIC seems to work just fine even with the blown fuse, though, and the Power Port above the Cig lighter isn't linked together so I always have a backup power port.

b.) My van was updated with new spindles and hubs from a generic D60, but of course, I lost my ABS (and therefore, cruise control) capabilities when that happened. That said, I have the original hubs and rotors and I'm wondering what luck people have had, having new hubs machined to fit the old Tone Rings? What are the odds of breaking said tone ring in the process? And I also don't see where on the rotor that needs to be machined out, so that would be a 'good to know' before I disassemble everything and embark down this process...

c.) Anyone have luck diagnosing Cruise Control issues? It's a factory setup, and I'm assuming it's disabled due to the ABS/Brake lights being on, but since these van's don't have a Cruise Control light, I can't follow the general diagnosis procedure that people post up for the trucks...