You want a sealant that is not self leveling. They can run all over the place making a mess.
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Larrie
Read detailed trip reports, see photos and videos on my travel blog, luinil.com.
Current van: 2002 Ford E350 extended body camper with Colorado Camper Van pop top and Agile Offroad 4WD conversion.
If Butyl is meant to go between surfaces, then I dont think it's the ticket here. I would use it for between my window and the metal window frame, but this seems different.
I'm leaning toward using this 3M 4000UV Marine Sealant again. It's not self leveling. Cures in 24 hr. A pro recommended it.
Is there anything that cures faster?
Thanks for all the tips. Seems like I've got a lot of scraping to do!
You want a sealant that is not self leveling. They can run all over the place making a mess.
That sounds right of course. I was hesitant to use the word but when I used Dicor self leveling in the past it seemed to have enough body for some angles rather than just flat surfaces. But I wouldn't want someone to go buy the stuff and find out it's not for them. And for anything vertical may be a non starter.
The killer use for that kind of material would be for a smooth surface that is visible and would not be embarrassing. But careful application of other sealants would be acceptable too.
To that point, I had water pooling in the floor of a car once to the point of rotting the carpet and when i finally figured out what was happening it turned out to be water traveling on a single strand of wire that was not OEM, it was part of a aftermarket alarm system. It was shocking how much water could "ride" that wire and find its way to the floor.
Great illustration. That would be very hard to catch in the act!
I’m pretty sure Fiberine and Wasatch Outdoors both use butyl for hightops. It’s hard to tell 100% when watching videos of Wasatch’s installs on YouTube, but I’m pretty sure I see a strip of gray butyl at the interface between the top and the roof of the van.
Funny, I tried to contact Fiberine by both email and phone. They responded to neither. Of course my question was regarding what product to use to reseal the top. I’m quite disappointed with no response at all. I’d have preferred a response that stated even something like “we have no recommendations “. I’m sure they’ve had to reseal tops from time to time.
Previously when I posed question to them not related to resealing the top they were very quick to respond.
Can't tell from the photos, but what is the interior finish like? If there's no cabinets, electrical, or other stuff in place, you could unfasten the top, lift it 1/2 inch, and really reseal the whole thing better than new. Just a thought, instead of trying to "plug" holes.
Funny, I tried to contact Fiberine by both email and phone. They responded to neither. Of course my question was regarding what product to use to reseal the top. I’m quite disappointed with no response at all. I’d have preferred a response that stated even something like “we have no recommendations “. I’m sure they’ve had to reseal tops from time to time.
Previously when I posed question to them not related to resealing the top they were very quick to respond.
I had a similar experience with Wasatch. I left a voicemail referring to the timestamp in the video I linked that showed what I think is the butyl. No reply.
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