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Old 08-18-2017, 03:40 PM   #21
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ohpyramids: what are you using for the PH roof perimeter seal? Looks like bulb seal from McMaster?.......
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Old 08-18-2017, 04:46 PM   #22
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ohpyramids: what are you using for the PH roof perimeter seal? Looks like bulb seal from McMaster?.......

Dude- thanks for your poptop scavenging thread. I learned alot and it really helped me. Im using some McMaster EPDM - Part 1142A78Weather-Resistant Rubber Seal Flange-Mount, Hollow, 2" Overall Width, 1/2" High, 50 ft. Length



Mcmaster part on left vs brand new SMB replacement on right.
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Old 08-19-2017, 01:56 AM   #23
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Does anyone know if you can cut the roof post Rapter liner?


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+1 on the raptor liner top refinish. I got the paint-matchable kit and did both the smb top and ford metal roof at the same time. Took about 2.5 bottles (make sure to get mixing gear cause the additives don't all fit inside the original bottle), used the adhesion promoter and acid etch cans to prep the surfaces. Im super stoked.



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Old 08-19-2017, 08:13 AM   #24
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Does anyone know if you can cut the roof post Rapter liner?
Yes, no problem at all.
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Old 08-27-2017, 02:38 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by ohpyramids View Post
+1 on the raptor liner top refinish. I got the paint-matchable kit and did both the smb top and ford metal roof at the same time. Took about 2.5 bottles (make sure to get mixing gear cause the additives don't all fit inside the original bottle), used the adhesion promoter and acid etch cans to prep the surfaces. Im super stoked.




Did you scrape the old sealant from your rain gutters prior to Raptor application? My seals were dry and rotted and I just scrapped them out so I could clean and sand some surface rust. I'd like prime the rails and put in a new bead of self-leveling sealant before Raptor liner as the seam in the metal is a little wider than I would trust the raptor to get into.

Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2017, 03:18 PM   #26
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Did you scrape the old sealant from your rain gutters prior to Raptor application? My seals were dry and rotted and I just scrapped them out so I could clean and sand some surface rust. I'd like prime the rails and put in a new bead of self-leveling sealant before Raptor liner as the seam in the metal is a little wider than I would trust the raptor to get into.

Thanks!
I was concerned about my old rain gutter sealant as well, but my mechanic inspected it and said the old sealant was fine, so we decided to blast over it with the Raptor liner.

If you were to redo the seam seal, I believe there are some threads on here recommending either a Sikaflex or 3M sealant. Can't remember which. Make sure that sealant dries properly before Raptor lining over it. Don't forget to use the adhesion promoter and Acid Etch sprays.
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Old 12-27-2020, 02:13 PM   #27
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Install after. Much easier and cleaner. No problems getting tracks etc to sit flush as the liner flexes enough. The one thing I did do is coat the yuuuuge washers on top cinching them down with a nut/bolt and butyl tape first, then spray, then remove nut/bolt and use a fresh stainless one on final install. If I do another I'll use Gooseberry's SS hardware again. Good stuff.
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I would install them first and tape them off. That way they are sitting on the smooth surface of the top and not sitting on top of the spray.
It seems like there is a debate on whether any hardware being installed on the PH top should be done before or after the top is sprayed with liner. Now that it has been a few years, can 86Scotty or scummy share your experience, any leaks?

I am getting my top ready to spray with Raptor liner and am going to be removing a bunch of hardware already (solar panels are hard mounted) and installing tracks and a rack for everything. I will also be replacing the SMB bolts with the Gooseberry (aka Justgosurfin) bolts. Could use some advice on installing the hardware before or after the liner?
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Old 02-13-2021, 09:58 AM   #28
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Raptor over hardware?

Although it sounds like most do not spray over the hardware, I am curious if anyone has or recommends. I see the benefit of maintaining access to the hardware in future, but also the issue of not messing with hardware that's not leaking in a 2001. Is the hardware a cinch to replace water tight?
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Old 02-13-2021, 10:27 AM   #29
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It seems like there is a debate on whether any hardware being installed on the PH top should be done before or after the top is sprayed with liner. Now that it has been a few years, can 86Scotty or scummy share your experience, any leaks?

I am getting my top ready to spray with Raptor liner and am going to be removing a bunch of hardware already (solar panels are hard mounted) and installing tracks and a rack for everything. I will also be replacing the SMB bolts with the Gooseberry (aka Justgosurfin) bolts. Could use some advice on installing the hardware before or after the liner?
Sorry but I just now saw this. Mine never leaked before I sold it but that's been a few years.

Here's what I did: I used the original rusty bender washers and bolts in place while spraying the top. I cleaned them up with a wire wheel/bench grinder and just dropped the bolts and washers in to place for spraying. Then I removed them and had a smooth spot for the new (Gooseberry) hardware to go. I installed the new hardware with butyl and trimmed the edges where it oozed out when installing.

I can't stress enough to use lots of antiseize on stainless hardware!
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Old 02-13-2021, 10:39 AM   #30
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I ended up removing the hardware that I was planning to replace with the Gooseberry/Justgosurfin bolts and leaving the hardware I was not replacing installed when I sprayed my top with Raptor. If you cover the fastener caps with tape for the hardware you leave in place, you can still remove the bolt as necessary. You should spray any hardware you leave installed with adhesive promoter before applying the bedliner. For the hardware I removed, I used some bolts with a few small fender washers and a nut to cover the hole. It left a small unpainted circle when I removed it post spray. See pics below for my pre and post spray top. Good luck!
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35804DC2-E621-446A-B4BA-65AE52E57D31.jpg   87225818-621B-44B6-A9D4-D828C4BF369F.jpg  
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