For anyone considering a similar trip I wanted to hit the highlights of my route. Many thanks to all of you who helped me put this together, both on this thread and in PM. I had a great time and learned a lot. Since this was by definition a work trip I was in a hurry but it served as a great scouting mission for future trips out there.
So, I actually did my business in Vegas late Saturday afternoon a couple weeks ago, dropping the trailer I pulled out there in town, then quickly rolled up to Lovell Canyon Rd. up 160 to the west. It was 106 in Vegas and I planned to camp my way up to Portland. A couple thousand feet up at Lovell Canyon it was in the low 80's.
The next morning after groceries and fuel in Pahrump I rolled through Death Valley to 395. It was cloudy with intermittent rain, a phenomenon I know happens in DV but just unusual to see when you've only visited in the summer. It was very quiet, I may've seen 10 or 20 cars all the way across. I started pretty early though, around 0630. I was over on 395 by 0930 even stopping a few times for pics.
395 from Lone Pine up was definitely NOT quiet. All the weekend plus summer traffic was in full force. I should've gone over in to the Alabama Hills for an hour or two because it's such an amazing place but just decided to roll on north. At this time I was worried about my Tuesday appt. 1000 miles north with lots of active fire areas to get through.
Throughout Sunday I worked my way steadily up 395 stopping at Convict Lake, driving the June Lake Loop and stopping at The Mobil in Lee Vining for lunch. It was just north of there where I started to see serious smoke. As in the mountains to the west were totally obscured. My first detour was continuing up 395 at Topaz Lake instead of taking 89. Because I was concerned about my schedule at this point I skipped all of the recommendations around Topaz Lake but definitely want to get back there when it isn't wildfire season.
The Tamarack fire was in full force at this point. I took 207 up the mountain to South Lake Tahoe and though a beautiful drive I could hardly see any of it. Quite eerie to see smoke that thick. It didn't seem to bother the crowds in town though. I decided to take 89 around the west side of the lake on @unreng's suggestion and by the time I got to the west side of the lake the smoke was mostly gone. I fooled around near the Rubicon Trail area on the west side, feeling i had a little time to explore, but ultimately the crowds killed it for me. I'd like to come back mid week anytime but summer.
After paying $4.85 in Truckee for fuel I headed on north a little and called it a day around Sagehen on 89. Had a beautiful camp along a creek and fell asleep to the sound of rushing water, my favorite sound in the world. About 0500 the hotshot water trucks started pumping water from this stream (with loud generators) and I knew my respite was over.
I set off up 89 and enjoyed lots of stops in dry NorCal for pictures and short walks. There are several wonderful little towns worth a stop on this section of 89/70. Lake Almanor is a nice spot, I was hoping to spend any free time today in Lassen though.
Just south of Lassen the smoke got very thick again from the Dixie Fire. At this point I should say that my trip was becoming very bittersweet. It's heartbreaking to see what the residents of Northern California are dealing with. The drought is profound. The fire damage and conditions are horrifying. It really bothered me to see so much of it firsthand, especially since to me personally places like are paradise. You can have the white sandy beaches. Give me the pines, aspens, rivers and waterfalls.
Anyway, I rolled on up the mountain to the southeast entrance to Lassen and was, as usual for a new-to-me NP, blown away! It was fairly smoky up there still but a beautiful park nonetheless. I stopped for pics and short hikes along the way but started to get 'trip overload' by the time I made it around to the west entrance so for me, that means a long afternoon nap. For anyone not from the west who isn't familiar with Lassen it is a great hidey hole. Not nearly as popular or busy as most of the NPs. I'll be back.
After Lassen I cruised on up to Mt. Shasta, took a break in Weed and then through Klamath Falls to Crater Lake. I spent the night north of Diamond Lake. The next morning, feeling I could spare a couple hours, I drove across 138 stopping several times to hike to the great waterfalls along there. To anyone planning a trip this is a wonderful drive with lots of falls along the Clearwater and Umpqua Rivers. Watson and Toketee Falls are among our favorites.
Just west of Toketee Falls the fire activity and damage was immense. I took a shortcut over to I-5 at Glide and rolled on in to Portland by mid day Tuesday.
Getting the top was simple and smooth. Great crew at Super Pacific.
Oregon by
K A, on Flickr
I'll get to my much less interesting return trip soon but here's a shot of one night along Salmon Creek near Oakridge, OR.
Oregon by
K A, on Flickr