Requesting Part number ebrake parking emergency cable e350 ford extended body

[Ocsmb]

Originally Posted by posplayr

These are pictures of a 2000 E-350 EB (rear disk brakes); the other was my spare 1999 E-350 EB (also disk brakes).

You have the correct parts (for left and right), but as you can see in the first picture there is another cable to connect the front cable to the rear. You need one more section of coated cable and one more of the end-to-end fasteners.

Any idea what the part number is for the extension in the middle ?

[Vindisl]

Originally Posted by bigriver

Yep - that is a known issue with these rigs. It would be great to hear how someone has remedied this.

I recently tackled the issue after ignoring it for a few years. The problem was surface rust frozen star adjuster nuts and the cross-sliding cable actuators. The shoes were in great shape which was surprising considering a 2001 rig! Did not have to replace any components. Just PB Blaster and manipulation of the frozen parts. Being able to adjust the stars under direct visual afterwards was also a great help. Parking brake is working great now! PM me if you’d like further details.

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by Ocsmb

Any idea what the part number is for the extension in the middle ?

2000 Ford E-350 2A793 intermediate cable

Interesting things in the 2000 FSM. There are several variations, but one figure shows E-150 and E-350 as the same with an intermediate cable.

A search shows up this (Rock Auto).

Parking Brake Cable - 2000 Ford E350 V10

1. ACDELCO 18P1974 Gold / Professional
   
2. RAYBESTOS BC95459 Parking Brake Cable

• DODGE B1500 1995-1998
• DODGE B2500 1995-1998
• DODGE RAM 1500 VAN 1999-2003
• DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 1999
• DODGE RAM 2500 VAN 1999-2001
• FORD E-250 2000-2006
• FORD E-350 1997-2006
• FORD ECONOLINE SUPER DUTY 1996-1998

[HIGHCOUNTRYMIKE]

I would be interested in a reliable break mechanic in the Los Angeles area.

HIGHCOUNTRYMIKE 2003 E350 SPORTSMOBILE 7.3 4X4 320,000

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by Vindisl

I recently tackled the issue after ignoring it for a few years. The problem was surface rust frozen star adjuster nuts and the cross-sliding cable actuators. The shoes were in great shape which was surprising considering a 2001 rig! Did not have to replace any components. Just PB Blaster and manipulation of the frozen parts. Being able to adjust the stars under direct visual afterwards was also a great help. Parking brake is working great now! PM me if you’d like further details.

Thanks for reporting.

[HIGHCOUNTRYMIKE]

posplayr,
I am interested in the details, and I may look closer at a home remedy.

[Vindisl]

Originally Posted by HIGHCOUNTRYMIKE

posplayr,
I am interested in the details, and I may look closer at a home remedy.

Remove wheel spacer if present - and caliper, rotor.
Inspect, wire brush, blow air, vacuum p-brake as needed. Carefully inspect all components to see if they are serviceable or ought to be replaced. Service kits are readily available in stores or online and inexpensive. Afterwards it’s just a matter of replacement using the service kit, or PB Blaster and manipulating to completely loosen all frozen components like actuator, star wheel, shoe retention pins and such.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by posplayr

Also, the self-adjusting shoes don't adjust very well, so they tend to lose braking force over time.

I've done it the easy way......pop the rubber bung out of the backing plate and rotate the star wheel on the self-adjuster until the shoes started rubbing..then back off a little. It works best if you remove the wheels....gives you more sensitivity on the "just rubbing" part.

..and sometimes remove the rotors......off and on a few times..to really get them dialed in.

HighcountryMike: I just sent you a PM.

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by boywonder

I've done it the easy way......pop the rubber bung out of the backing plate and rotate the star wheel on the self-adjuster until the shoes started rubbing..then back off a little. It works best if you remove the wheels....gives you more sensitivity on the "just rubbing" part.

..and sometimes remove the rotors......off and on a few times..to really get them dialed in.

The access holes under the rubber bungs are a little difficult to access, but I'm glad to hear it is doable. From my earlier reading these back brakes seemed to be a bit of a mystery as to why they were so difficult to make work.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by posplayr

The access holes under the rubber bungs are a little difficult to access, but I'm glad to hear it is doable. From my earlier reading these back brakes seemed to be a bit of a mystery as to why they were so difficult to make work.

If thru the bung hole is difficult, just pull the rotor..spin the star and reinstall rotor and give it a spin......rinse and repeat until you get a little drag.


They appear to be typical old-school drum type...minus the hydraulic slave cylinder of course. Star adjuster and some extension springs.