20 amp Shore power OK?

[dogsandcats]

I have 2006 6.0 with a Tripp-Lite 2000w inverter/charger model MRV2012UL. At home, I don't yet have a 30 amp outlet available yet so I have the van hooked up to a 20 amp circuit for shore power to keep the battery charged during long storage. I also had to use an 18 gauge (for 20 amp) extension cord attached to the van's 30 amp cord for extra length. My concern is that 20 amps and using the size 18 cord is under powering the inverter/charger and may damage the unit or system. I'll appreciate your thoughts. Thanks

[gahamby]

Get rid of that 18 ga. and get a 12 ga. min. extension cord.

[Twoxentrix]

Recommend you also use an RV waterproof surge protector which attaches between your shore power and any extension cord (definitely would use this at any available campground electric).

[BrianW]

I’ve had mine plugged into a 15a outlet for years. No issues.

[Steve Hunt]

Originally Posted by Twoxentrix

Recommend you also use an RV waterproof surge protector which attaches between your shore power and any extension cord (definitely would use this at any available campground electric).

Is there a known premium brand/model for portable use at campgrounds? So much chinese junk electronic stuff out there.

[Twoxentrix]

Originally Posted by Steve Hunt

Is there a known premium brand/model for portable use at campgrounds? So much chinese junk electronic stuff out there.

There are a lot of variations on the market. I would say you DO want something that is labeled EMS (Electrical management system), opposed to just a surge protector. EMS will be more expensive because it guards against more than a surge protector. (Progressive Industries is highly rated, and offers lifetime warranty)
I'd hunt for one that offers:

• Waterproof
• Auto Shutoff protection
• High/Low voltage protection
• Something rated above 2000 Joules (higher is better)
• Make sure it has a "UL Certification" (meaning it's been tested to achieve its claims)

I have a different version of this (Have had mine 7yrs now)
https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Progress...2-b322340b23c8

[Steve Hunt]

Originally Posted by Steve Hunt

Is there a known premium brand/model for portable use at campgrounds? So much chinese junk electronic stuff out there.

Originally Posted by Twoxentrix

There are a lot of variations on the market. I would say you DO want something that is labeled EMS (Electrical management system), opposed to just a surge protector. EMS will be more expensive because it guards against more than a surge protector. (Progressive Industries is highly rated, and offers lifetime warranty)
I'd hunt for one that offers:

• Waterproof
• Auto Shutoff protection
• High/Low voltage protection
• Something rated above 2000 Joules (higher is better)
• Make sure it has a "UL Certification" (meaning it's been tested to achieve its claims)

I have a different version of this (Have had mine 7yrs now)
https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Progress...2-b322340b23c8

Great , thanks. I wasted time, money and frustration with home indoor surge suppression (Florida lightning capital) and finally just bought a whole-house suppression that my utility offers out at the meter. I'm going to get something for the van since I've decided to add roof top AC.

Another thing I learned with the house issues i had was that surge suppressors are consumable...based on their specs they are good for x amount of instances and x amount of surge and then they are "empty" Might not be the right words but you get the idea.

[Twoxentrix]

Originally Posted by Steve Hunt

Another thing I learned with the house issues i had was that surge suppressors are consumable...based on their specs they are good for x amount of instances and x amount of surge and then they are "empty" Might not be the right words but you get the idea.

OK, appreciate the info since it just woke me up...I had one installed on the house & haven't done anything with in over 20yrs. Seems I should/need to make a call !

With a roof AC unit, suspect you'll need to get a 10awg gauge extension cord to capitalize on the full 30amps. Would imagine the AC unit draws a good bit, and if you want to run anything else at the same time you'll need the capacity - 12awg is only rated for 15amps

[Steve Hunt]

Originally Posted by Twoxentrix

OK, appreciate the info since it just woke me up...I had one installed on the house & haven't done anything with in over 20yrs. Seems I should/need to make a call !

With a roof AC unit, suspect you'll need to get a 10awg gauge extension cord to capitalize on the full 30amps. Would imagine the AC unit draws a good bit, and if you want to run anything else at the same time you'll need the capacity - 12awg is only rated for 15amps

I could have written that better. I'm not 100% certain a whole house suppressor at the service meter are the same technology as the indoor ones you plug into the wall outlet. The indoor ones that just protect a individual outlet are consumable.

[Scalf77]

I run a hard wired Power Watchdog. I also carry a replacement surge module. It is kind of nice, it checks out the power and if it's good it connects. Really like having smart breaker,

I agree totally invest in a better extension cord. The long run with small wires will reduce the incoming voltage. So if your just keeping the Van hooked up to float the battery, you really are not pulling a lot of current. Depending on how it is configured, the charger could be at 25 amps or 100 amps. That should be set based on the size and kind of battery. Even if set at 100 the 20 amp circuit would be fine.

There are also some limiting settings on your inverter/charger, that may limit the output of the charger if you were pulling heavier loads. This wouldn't help you with your 20 amp input.

To understand the affect of the small sized extension cord look at these .

Best case:

Charger set at 100 amps
Absorption Voltage set at 14.4 volt
10% conversion cost

(100 X 14.4) *10% = 1584 watts

1584 watts / 120 (incoming AC best case) = 13.2 amps

1584watts /110 ( AC input challenged by long small extension cord) 14.4 amps.

And that would be a best case example, because the conversion cost would get worse at lower voltage also

-greg