What kind of Generator??

[Ultrasport12]

So 5 hours is way too fast, something is defiantly wrong...

Lets start with what the van is and has.

Is the van a home build or a real Sportsmobile?

You said it was a 7.3 diesel so has two starting batteries. One under the hood and one on the frame by the side doors.

Does it have a house battery or two?

The inverter is not the thing that separates the batteries from house and starting. For that is it either a relay/separator or an isolator. either of these devices charge the house battery when the van is running but divides the battery banks when it is off. It may have an manual switch to connect them possibly.

The best thing you could do it check all of the batteries.

If they are wet cell batteries pull them out check the water/acid level and add distilled water if they need it. After they have been fully charged check the specific gravity of each cell

Any type of battery charge them with a good three step charger. After they have charged (sometimes this can take up to 24 hours) I would take them to an auto parts store or repair shop to load test them. If they pass the load test recharge them and put them back in the van, if not replace them. The two starting batteries should always be done as a matching pair. If one is bad it will drain the other one.

If the batteries all test ok then you have to see if they are charging while you drive...

That should get you a start...

There are many really great threads on this forum about batteries, charging and things like this.
Use the search and read up about it..

Here is one to get you started...

http://sportsmobileforum.com/viewtopic. ... it=battery


...Jamie

[JBG]

Yes I'm guessing it's an isolator issue. I had the house battery
Checked for voltage and they said it was good. But I didn't have the two starter batteries checked. I'm taking it out this weekend and will try to trouble shoot. First have the isolator on and have the house fridge and radio running while driving (5hrs). Then turn the isolator off and leave the fridge on with jus the house battery. In the morning if the house is dead but van still starts I'll assume it's a bad house battery. If everything is dead I'll probably have to assume a bad isolator. I'm not real technical and the house battery is a bear to get to so I would rather not take it out yet. This is a home built van and bought used so I have no idea of the age of the batteries etc. thanks again for your help and I'll update after the weekend

[Ford_6L_E350]

An isolator doesn't have to be turned off/on. In fact it usually can't be. Are you talking about the inverter that makes AC power from DC (battery).

Since yours is a homebuilt, is it possible there is no isolator? Maybe a switch to separate the starting batteries from the house batteries?

Where are you located? Maybe one of our members who is more familiar with electrical systems could look at your van and help solve your problem.

Mike

[JBG]

I am in Seattle. Maybe I'll change my name to "cluess in Seattle" and live in the van down by lake union . But yes there is some sort of switch that is red an green on the drivers side near the door panel. It was explained that it allowed for charging of the house batts by the main when the engin was running and would isolate the house from the main when turned off.

[Ford_6L_E350]

That sounds like it is a simple switch.

The switch must have been closed when you ran down the starting batteries, or you closed the switch before you tried to start the engine.

When closed, all the batteries are tied together so the alternator can charge the house batteries. Only close it when the engine is running and the alternator is charging.

When open, it separates the batteries so the frig, etc. don't run down the starting batteries.

An isolator or separator does that and more, but automatically so you don't have to remember to flip the switch. Here is the one SMB installed in my van:

http://www.ase-supply.com/Sure_Power_13 ... 315a-b.htm

There are other devices out there that do similar things. I'm happy with mine.

Mike

[McZippie]

If there is still enough juice in the batteries to make the starter go click, but not turn over the engine, a 1000 watt generator with a 40 amp charger, should put enough charge into the batteries to start a diesel in 10 to 20 minutes. I do it about once a year.
We don't separate our starting and house batteries, prefer to have them combined into one large bank for Peukert Effect benefit and more amp hours available for house use.

Also Australian designed compact gasoline powered 12 volt chargers, are now available in the US, pretty slick units.

http://www.alten-dc.com/

http://www.alten-dc.com/downloads/al...r_brochure.pdf

[05 Sprinter]

When sizing a LP fueled generator, don't forget to derate for altitude. We live at 8,200ft and a lot of our camping is at 9,000+ft.. At 7,000ft. you should derate the generator output by 15-20%.

I chose the solar route, 3 flexible Uni-Solar 68w panels bonded to the PH roof. No worries about breaking a panel.
I can walk on them when I'm loading the kayaks.
Tom