6.7L Cummins conversion project

[mgmetalworks]

Originally Posted by Lilnuts2

I totally second that!
MG
I appreciate everything you contribute to this site and others.
It's people like you that allow people like me (not unlimited funds) to achieve the results I want. I have Jay Leno automotive tastes, but not $$$$, and you make at least part of that possible and I thank you!

Thank you for the support!

[arctictraveller]

I feel your pain in so many ways. Pretty much every job I have chosen to sub out on my van has had issues. I didn’t want to do the ball joints so I had a local off-road shop do them along with new SS brake hoses, and a new set of Method wheels and tires. As they were finishing I saw them using an impact on the lug nuts and had to tell them to stop and use a torque wrench. I later found three lug nuts stripped. Immediately after they were done, I took off on a trip and 900 miles later it was making a bad noise so I borrowed a floor jack from a tire place and discovered the drivers front wheel bearings were stupid loose. Then I discovered that the brake hose was nearly cut through to the core from rubbing on the rim. A new hose and set of wheel bearings fixed the issue. Next up was a total rebuild on a Dana60 full float at a well known Washington differential shop. 3000 miles later I noticed oil dripping from the pinion seal. It took over a quart to refill and then I had to keep adding oil every couple days as I worked my way home. I took it back and upon inspection, the carrier bearings were scored so they rebuilt it again (under warranty) but insisted that the new TruTrac was fine. Now I’m on another trip and it’s chattering so badly it sounds like it’s ready to explode. I called Detroit tech support and they said it needs different oil, and it’s likely the shafts that the helical gears run on are scored. I bought a new all aluminum radiator that leaked from day one at the top tank. The Redhead steering box I bought was so tight it wouldn’t return to center so they told me to loosen the adjustment until it did and now there’s excessive play. The new muffler didn’t get enough hangers so when it broke loose, it bounced around enough to crack the manifold. There’s more, but I really can feel your pain.

[mk216v]

Wooooowwwwww.....yiiiikes x Multiples.

Sadly, very sadly, this is true more than ever;
IT'S REALLY FRIGGIN DIFFICULT TO FIND GOOD HELP THESE DAYS.

Thanks for continuing to take us on the bada$$ Cummins journey MG. It's a/the world class E-Series, and it hasn't gotten enough deserving press. I bet the new owner is jones'in to get out and enjoy the heck out of it.

[marret]

I’ll echo other comments and say thanks MG for all the effort, contributions, and taking us along. Sucks to have to go through all the problems, but it is the way it is these days unfortunately and finding good help is indeed difficult.

[IanF]

Oh wow... that's quite a story. Hopefully the 3rd TC stays together. And you can share the vendor for it so those of us pondering a Cummins/Allison conversion know which one to buy.

[Pntyrmvr]

I want to know whose converters failed.

[mgmetalworks]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

I feel your pain in so many ways. Pretty much every job I have chosen to sub out on my van has had issues. I didn’t want to do the ball joints so I had a local off-road shop do them along with new SS brake hoses, and a new set of Method wheels and tires. As they were finishing I saw them using an impact on the lug nuts and had to tell them to stop and use a torque wrench. I later found three lug nuts stripped. Immediately after they were done, I took off on a trip and 900 miles later it was making a bad noise so I borrowed a floor jack from a tire place and discovered the drivers front wheel bearings were stupid loose. Then I discovered that the brake hose was nearly cut through to the core from rubbing on the rim. A new hose and set of wheel bearings fixed the issue. Next up was a total rebuild on a Dana60 full float at a well known Washington differential shop. 3000 miles later I noticed oil dripping from the pinion seal. It took over a quart to refill and then I had to keep adding oil every couple days as I worked my way home. I took it back and upon inspection, the carrier bearings were scored so they rebuilt it again (under warranty) but insisted that the new TruTrac was fine. Now I’m on another trip and it’s chattering so badly it sounds like it’s ready to explode. I called Detroit tech support and they said it needs different oil, and it’s likely the shafts that the helical gears run on are scored. I bought a new all aluminum radiator that leaked from day one at the top tank. The Redhead steering box I bought was so tight it wouldn’t return to center so they told me to loosen the adjustment until it did and now there’s excessive play. The new muffler didn’t get enough hangers so when it broke loose, it bounced around enough to crack the manifold. There’s more, but I really can feel your pain.

Obviously you understand my struggle here. Sorry to hear about all the troubles. You have me beat on the "Number of things that fail while on a road trip far from home" game.

You got me beat on the axle story too. You got way more miles that I did. My "professionally built" Sterling 10.5 made it less than 200 miles before I had to do a full tear down and rebuild. Gear pattern, backlash, pinion depth, pinion preload and ARB lines were all so far off and so hastily done that I can't believe they even checked any of it. The oring seals on the axle shafts were so old, hard and chewed up that I had an oil leak before I had really driven the van anywhere. A $5000 axle build and you don't replace the axle seals? And unfortunately it's not the only axle I've fixed that came from them. Needless to say, I've purchased all of the tools and spent a good deal of time teaching myself as much as I can about gear setup so I can do it myself from now on.

[mgmetalworks]

Thanks all for the words of encouragement and support!

For those asking about the converters...

#1 Converter was purchased through Destroked but it was actually made by Precision Industries. I called Destroked with the news of the chewed up internals and while I was assured that the cost of the converter itself would be covered, they quickly directed me to a person at Precision for my attempts at additional compensation. The person I talked to at Precision asked for a serial number and pictures...I sent them promptly...he called me back and said "Yeah, this was made during a period where we had an employee who wasn't working out very well and he's no longer working here." I was like... "and? that's supposed to make my problem go away?" His response was basically "shit happens...sorry, our warranty doesn't cover downstream failures due to our part failing".

#2 Converter was made by Superior Torque Converters. Admittedly, this wasn't my first choice as a replacement but the trans shop that was doing the rebuild highly recommended them and when I talked to one of the people about my application, they gave me references to others who had done Cummins/Allison swaps with good results....talking to a couple users who were happy with their results plus the shop recommending this brand AND the fact that they're local... I just wanted the rig back together and I took the advice.

#3 Converter is from Goerend. Recommended to me by the trans tuner. He's tuned dozens of Cummins/Allison swapped rigs and seen good results with this company. It's all right there in data log...you can see the difference between a good converter and a not so good one. When I called to talk to them about my issues, they asked for data logs and after a few days of review, the engineer called back and confirmed the same things that the trans tuner was telling me. Of course I asked a bunch of questions, as is my nature, and both of the people I spoke to at the company were very knowledgeable and provided me with thorough explanations about why their product was good.

I was also considering Revmax and ATS.

[vandiesel]

Michael, I did a torque converter swap from superior with my daughter on her diesel Passat wagon. She was off to pilot training in OK. The torque converter lasted 600 miles. Like you it caused a chain of events leading me to working directly with the dealership owner in OK City. Crap mfg from superior and cost me another $3500 and big stress for an already stressed new pilot You are not alone at least. I think we need a posse around here for warranty reimbursement!

[mgmetalworks]

Originally Posted by vandiesel

Michael, I did a torque converter swap from superior with my daughter on her diesel Passat wagon. She was off to pilot training in OK. The torque converter lasted 600 miles. Like you it caused a chain of events leading me to working directly with the dealership owner in OK City. Crap mfg from superior and cost me another $3500 and big stress for an already stressed new pilot You are not alone at least. I think we need a posse around here for warranty reimbursement!

Oof... sorry to hear that! Good info to have when I go back to them with my core though.