Sooooo..I was supposed to leave Monday for three weeks on the road: Canyonlands, Yosemite and Big Sur. As is my SOP, I drive the van a couple days before leaving to, you know, make sure. Started it Saturday morning--ran like sh*t. No check engine light, so I figured it had to be because of work I did earlier in the week. Can installing an awning to that? Maybe on a 6.0 but unlikely. How about the $250 Amsoil oil change I did on Tues? Ah, must have air bubbles in the HPOP system--a little knowledge is a dangerous thing--so I drove it a bit. Ran worse, no smoke, no light. Got out my trusty PC based scan tool, tried to remember how to use it, and pulled up an entire screen of fault codes mostly relating to cylinder performance and FICM performance. There we go. Went to the "Live Meter" page on the scan-tool to check FICM voltage at idle--it was off the lower end of the scale, but would surge back to 48+ volts now and then. After some idling the check engine light came on indicating I had a problem.
Some research in my Ford manuals and on the ever-valuable internet confirmed what I already knew--bad FICM. So after jumping around a bit I over-nighted one of these:
http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Bul...icmupgrade.htm (mine had 4 pins and I got the 6 phase which is supposed to have redundancy built in for reliability or whatever--it cost more so it's gooder.)
It turned out to be very easy to install, and fixed everything. The new FICM internals are quite different than the stock unit, so maybe it is better--we'll see. Also, they only send you the power board for the FICM--you reuse the logic board so no reprogramming is necessary.
Last April, I checked FICM voltage--see above--and it was very fine. There really wasn't any warning this time, but I've decided that the injectors buzz more vigorously now when the key is turned on than they did a few days ago. This might be a tell-tale sign your FICM is FICKED.
I can't exaggerate what a disaster this would have been in the Maze. I'm gonna buy another FICM to have as a spare as it can be replaced in 15 minutes with hand tools. My 6.0anoia is high, so I also ordered an ICP switch, IPR valve, crank and cam sensors and a can of MAF cleaner. Plus I have my scan-tool, all factory manuals including engine diagnostic/performance and wiring diagrams. I'm ready...
Feels good to be able to diagnose and repair my own 6.0 issues even though it was a simple/common one.
Yikes
Z