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Old 03-24-2017, 07:58 PM   #21
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dont forget to leave the glow plugs out and put the valve covers back on....then crank over the motor....this will clear the oil from the cylinder
If you dont put the valve covers back on the oil will shoot through the roof and make one hell of a mess
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:48 PM   #22
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Here's the GPR I would recommend:http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=C...ed=0CEMQpyswAA
It is same size as stock with 100% duty cycle. Smaller and much less expensive than the Stancorp monster. I bought my turbo blanket from ThermalZero. T4 size. Fits great, made in US, high quality, and allowed me to eliminate the rattling tin heat shield! Intake modifications involved adding curved pieces of aluminum to channel air better into rectangular plastic intake ports. Since box sits directly above radiator, I cleaned the whole thing with alcohol and applied foil type high heat tape with flame proof adhesive to block heat. I also cut 2 - 3/4" x @6" rectangular holes in plastic right above grille. covered them with 1/4" mesh to keep bugs out of filter. Basically, air can now travel between hood and grille more directly into filter box. Works great, been through all kinds of rain, sleet, snow, no problems even when my Wicked Wheel 2 is whistling like crazy! I also deleted my AIH because it doesn't come on unless several parameters are met including the parking brake must be engaged! If you don't sit idling in winter, you can free up 25% more flow. Also went with RiffRaff CCV inserts, boots, and T-bolt clamps. Without the stupid resonator box and the tin shield, you can reach in from the doghouse and change the fuel bowl filter in 5 minutes or less too.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogasm View Post
dont forget to leave the glow plugs out and put the valve covers back on....then crank over the motor....this will clear the oil from the cylinder
If you dont put the valve covers back on the oil will shoot through the roof and make one hell of a mess
Yea I was reading to do that by just cranking it over by hand right? Also after apparently you use a big syringe or something to fill some new oil into it, do you have any idea what bolt to take out and where to fill or how much oil? Also my HPOP reservoir top fill bolt is stripped, does anyone know what the best tool would be to get it out and where to find a replacement plug?
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:00 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by VOODOO7.3 View Post
Here's the GPR I would recommend:http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=C...ed=0CEMQpyswAA
It is same size as stock with 100% duty cycle. Smaller and much less expensive than the Stancorp monster.
Ah man, I just ordered a Stancorp from diesel o rings, that price was way better on that one, dang.
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Old 03-25-2017, 04:08 AM   #25
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I did the passenger side and got it running to check my work. I put the valve cover on with two bolts and left the glow plugs out and just cranked it over a couple times to get the oil out. Seemed to work fine for me. I did unplug the crank position sensor to ensure it didn't try to start.
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Old 03-25-2017, 01:54 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Gtbensley View Post
I did the passenger side and got it running to check my work. I put the valve cover on with two bolts and left the glow plugs out and just cranked it over a couple times to get the oil out. Seemed to work fine for me. I did unplug the crank position sensor to ensure it didn't try to start.
You do this to remove the oil that fell into the cylinder when you removed the injector. If you do not do this it will hydro lock

nemesisnight you do not add oil to the cylinder the objective is to remove all oil from the cylinder
After you spin it over with the glow plugs removed you re install the plugs and then turn the motor over by hand to double check the oil removal process. If you hit a hard spot while turning by hand then there is still oil in one cylinder and the process must be repeated
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Old 03-26-2017, 05:28 AM   #27
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Back up and running after one long day yesterday.

Nemesisnight, I think you will have no problem doing the passenger side. There is way less stuff to pull off to access the injectors, but you do pull two solinoids which is easy.

After I got mine running last night, I know have code p0708 for trans range sensor circuit high input? Without a doubt that was not there when I started this job. I did unplug a master harness that runs across the VC maybe I broke a wire? Kinda odd to me but there must be something I did.
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Old 03-27-2017, 05:05 PM   #28
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Was raining all weekend but made a little progress:

EBPV Delete pedestal and High flow outlet

This may have been leaking, what do you think?

fuel regulator all gunked up, rebuilding fuel bowl with dieselOrings kit


Completely unrelated but does anyone know where I could find a low profile replacement for this plug outlet box, I can't find anything even close or remotely low profile.....
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Old 03-28-2017, 04:53 AM   #29
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Nice work.
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Old 04-06-2017, 12:14 PM   #30
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This one might work for you in black to match the color scheme:
https://store.lci1.com/15a-receptacl...k-f15rcs-bs-am

or white like existing:
Exterior Electric Receptacle Cover, White - Lippert Components Inc 381597/F15RCS-PS - Electrical Hatches & Outlets - Camping World
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