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Old 09-26-2008, 08:51 AM   #21
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Talking to the stocking dealer in Riverside, he said he was unable to order 09 diesels. He ordered extra 08s. But I see three 09 diesels on the SM website. ??
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:32 PM   #22
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Re: PowerStroke 6.0 Diesel or a Gasser?

Even though I own a V-10 one of the most important considerations was saftey. Diesel fuel is safer to have a tank of strapped to the bottom of your van than a tank of gasoline in most situations.
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Old 06-07-2017, 11:19 AM   #23
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In accordance with the sticky regarding new threads about this subject, I am reviving this old thread due to the following information:

I came across a recent discussion on another forum that included a number of negative comments about the reliability of the Ford 6.0L diesel engine, and some comments from an expert mechanic. And, since I have owned mine now for about a year and a half, and considering that this subject is here to stay...and rightfully so, I thought the below information might help simplify the matter and help other folks like me, and those who are trying to make a decision on whether to buy the Ford 6.0 diesel or a gasser.

Aside from what I have been able to learn from here about any legitimate problems associated with the Ford 6.0L diesel engine, and according to one very knowledgeable individual, most of the other problems, generally speaking, could have been avoided by practicing the following standards: 1) Always warm the engine up and cool it down before and after use; 2) Do not over rev the engine; 3) Do not lug the engine, and; 4) Do not hotrod it like it was a gasser. This advice looks to be very sound when coupled with required maintenance and when adhereing to typical city and highway/Interstate speed limits. That said, I don't see a need to get on it from time to time from a standing start or drive much above 70 on the road. Does this actually makes sense to those of you that have a great deal of experience and/or knowledge with this engine?

James
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Old 06-07-2017, 11:24 AM   #24
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Nope, the 6.0 likes to be pushed hard. Don't baby it. Excessive idling isn't good but definitely let it cool down so carbon doesn't coke the tEGR valve, turbo vanes and drain tube. In short, drive it like you stole it
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Old 06-07-2017, 11:42 AM   #25
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My experience and the research I did over the years of owning mine would agree with Joe. While warming it up is a good idea I'm sure, once its warm feel free to put the hammer down once in a while. In fact I'd say that's best practice. Mine ran best when pushed and running a little on the hotter side during summer months. I spent many long days running over 70 mph. Having said that, I did have a Scanguage and EGT probe and always monitored temps.
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Old 06-07-2017, 11:47 AM   #26
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Nope, the 6.0 likes to be pushed hard. Don't baby it. Excessive idling isn't good but definitely let it cool down so carbon doesn't coke the tEGR valve, turbo vanes and drain tube. In short, drive it like you stole it
Thank you, JoeH!

How long do you let it idle on warm up? How long do you let it cool down?

Drive it like I stole it, huh? That's funny! Can I at least save on the rubber after a good rolling start?!

James
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Old 06-07-2017, 11:53 AM   #27
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My experience and the research I did over the years of owning mine would agree with Joe. While warming it up is a good idea I'm sure, once its warm feel free to put the hammer down once in a while. In fact I'd say that's best practice. Mine ran best when pushed and running a little on the hotter side during summer months. I spent many long days running over 70 mph. Having said that, I did have a Scanguage and EGT probe and always monitored temps.
Thank you, WhitH. I've had it on one long trip and stayed just above 70 for the most part...it's the flooring it from, especially a dead standstill that seems unnecessary to me. I bought myself a Scangauge as well and all was fine.
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Old 06-07-2017, 11:57 AM   #28
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Get a Scangauge or something so you can see actual temps, and don't idle it. Just drive it gently like you're an Oregonian in a Prius (but don't stay in the left lane...). I usually would wait until my oil and coolant temps got up into the 180s before getting too Froggy with it.
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:01 PM   #29
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Thank you, JoeH!

How long do you let it idle on warm up? How long do you let it cool down?

Drive it like I stole it, huh? That's funny! Can I at least save on the rubber after a good rolling start?!

James
Diesels like to run hot. I prefer to let EOT get to 100F before driving off and don't push it hard until getting up to operating temperature or 190F+. I don't lug it on grades and use the tow-haul but I'm also running FICM and PCM tunes which run hot anyway. I don't turn it off after a long pull on the freeway until EGTs are at or below 450F. Seems to be working for me but that's pretty much the general rule of thumb I think.

On the other hand I did melt a piston in mine but that was injector related. Maintenance is the key with the 6.0 and if you have an early one make sure it's got all the upgrade parts that mostly fixed the issues that gave the engine a bad name. Lots of threads on this.
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:49 PM   #30
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Some of the other things I've heard over the past few years are short runs where the engine never reaches close to full operating temps isn't good if driven often that way and letting the engine sit for long periods w/o running. I change the oil at about 5K, use Archoil stiction additive and use a dual filter system. I also replace the coolant way more often than Ford says. The shop suggested using radiator electrolysis additive plus they just installed a coolant filter. I learned early on Cetane booster is good. I used Ford's product until I was out of warranty and now am using Archoil. As mentioned warm it up easy, then drive it. I let my EGT gauge drop to about 500-600. I got 92K out of mine before they tore it apart and bullet proofed the engine. The engine and turbo looked great.
I did have issues, bed plate leak, injector loss, fouled EGR, and a few sensors failed, but no massive engine failures especially after using the fuel additives. The heat this engine compartment holds may have contributed to the wire harness failure that happened a few years back.
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