Starcool info - Page 4

Beejmac · 06-08-2020, 06:56 PM

Got my new Starcool condenser fan installed. Fittings rusty, and a pain to remove but got it in. I bench tested it, and as per a post in this thread, I would have wired it backwards if I hadn't read it. Strangely, when I turned the truck on the new fan started to run. Tried to run the Starcool AC after connecting to shore power, and blew the blower motor fuse this time. Blower motor was working prior to this. Are these the relays to the Starcool? They are under my Gauche bed not underneath the van.

Scalf77 · 06-08-2020, 07:20 PM

Yes, that is the starcool relay panel, the relay for the 110 compressor is under the van.

-greg

BrianW · 06-08-2020, 07:35 PM

Usually you’ll need a 30-amp hookup to run the Starcool. Running it on normal home 110vac 15-amp service will pop the breaker in the van (and maybe your house).

arctictraveller · 06-09-2020, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beejmac

I would have wired it backwards if I hadn't read it. Strangely, when I turned the truck on the new fan started to run. Tried to run the Starcool AC after connecting to shore power, and blew the blower motor fuse this time.

Had you wired the condenser fan backwards, the only thing that would have happened is the fan would run backwards, making it far less efficient. The 12v evaporator blower motor (the one inside the van) should have a 20a fuse, probably the bottom one on your relay panel. First, make sure the fan spins freely and isn't obstructed somehow. Take a close look at the blower speed switch to make sure nothing is touching the terminals, or there are no shorted wires. There really isn't any connection between the condenser fans and the blower motor circuit except for a common power source, so I suspect a separate issue here. I was able to run my Starcool from a 15a 110vac plug. A long, undersized extension cord might have enough voltage drop to blow the house circuit breaker, but it's unlikely.

Beejmac · 06-09-2020, 07:46 PM

Arctic Traveller, along the fan wiring reversal line, I read that it is fine to swap the wire for proper air flow direction, but does the fan blade need to reversed as well?
Tried to look at the power supply box next to the condenser tonight. Check fuse, and general condition. I swear I am expecting someone to jump out and say "your on candid camera!" Everything I try to do to this thing is a struggle. I attempt to remove small screw in the center bottom of the cover. Rusted, Phillips head won't do it. Break out the drill, 5 bits later and still there. Next Dremel a slot for straight blade screwdriver, screw comes out. Try to get cover off, no. 2 screw hangers tucked way up and invisible. Manage after a struggle to remove both, and find leads to compressor will not allow me to drop the box down for inspection. Now on to what I was trying to avoid, dropping the brackets to the whole compressor as they are impossibly positioned, and rusty. Well I was able to free all 4 with some swearing, and stopped there for the night as it was getting dark. So next chance I have I will drop the compressor, and finally get a look in the box. I could see that the conduit on the top of the power supply box has come apart so there is a big hole there. Suggestions or cautions as I proceed?
Sorry if this was a rant, just my experience.
BJM

**daveb** · 06-09-2020, 08:29 PM

SMB wired my fans backwards even the one on the radiator. What a difference when they spin the right direction.

arctictraveller · 06-10-2020, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beejmac

Arctic Traveller, along the fan wiring reversal line, I read that it is fine to swap the wire for proper air flow direction, but does the fan blade need to reversed as well?

It depends on the fan blade configuration, different manufacturers have different designs, so I can't say for sure. As for opening the junction box on the Danforth compressor, your experience is pretty much exactly the same as mine. I said a few bad words, and as you discovered, the top screws are pretty well impossible to remove without removing the bolts from the straps. I was able to leave one bolt in and just let the compressor hang down, while supported by a jack. I'm unclear though on what you are trying to accomplish though. An inspection and clean up is always a good idea though, but you won't find any fuses inside. There is a 12dc relay that energizes a 110vac relay that starts the compressor. If your still trying to trouble shoot the evaporator fan that blows the fuse, there won't be anything in the junction box that will pertain to that.

Beejmac · 06-10-2020, 12:16 PM

Compressor didn't run when the Starcool blower did. Will replace that relay as I don't want to have to repeat this procedure.
With regard to the fan, My ceiling fans I just reverse direction and they seem to blow. My bench test seemed to blow in the proper direction pretty well, and frankly I never thought of the need to, or considered flipping the blades around.

Scalf77 · 06-10-2020, 04:49 PM

Somewhat confused as to what you are trouble shooting now. Last report was that the 12 Volt Blower Motor Blew (Bottom 20 amp Fuse). When the Blower switch is on (low,med, or high) the only other fan that will come on is the 12 volt condenser (front of van) fan (second from bottom 20 amp fuse). It will actually be switched on by relay 2 in my diagram (2nd from left). Good place to check is terminal 6. That relay will also provide input to the 5 amp 120V comp fuse. The output of that fuse goes to the poles (30) of relay 3 & 4. Relay 3 is wired to NC throw that goes to the thermostat, you can check terminal strip 4 for 12 volts here. If the thermostat meets the setting it closes and 12 volt s goes back through terminal strip 3 and turns on relay 4. The NO throw of relay 4 goes through terminal strip 1 to the 120 volt compressor relay, and solenoid valve. It also goes directly to relay 1. This turns on the 12 volt aux condenser fan. It will go through terminal strip 7. The 12 volt aux condenser fan only runs when running off of shore power. If the van is running the ignition on wire, terminal 2 will enable relay 3, which will take away 12 volt to the thermostat.

Also a little confused when you say the fan blew when you started the van, I thought you replaced the aux condenser fan, it should not not come on while van is running.

-greg

arctictraveller · 06-10-2020, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scalf77

Also a little confused when you say the fan blew when you started the van, I thought you replaced the aux condenser fan, it should not not come on while van is running.-greg

If I remember correctly, if the blower switch behind the drivers seat is on, the evaporator fan will run, which makes sense because when the engine is running and the Ford A/C is on, the rear evaporator also gets freon, there by increasing the cooling in the rear of the van. When on shore power, a solenoid closes off freon from circulating in the front evaporator since you can't run the Ford A/C when the engine is off.