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07-24-2016, 01:04 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rancho Nuevo (Cabo/Todos Santos) B.C.S. and San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,952
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...or you can do what I do on my personal vehicles - over tighten everything!
__________________
Four time Baja 1000 winner, four time Baja 500 winner. Solo'ed the Baja 1000 to LaPaz/Cabo twice.
4-Wheeling since 1972, Desert Racing since 1989.
AgileOffRoad.com
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07-25-2016, 02:45 AM
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#32
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 5
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When it happened a few years ago we assumed it was because they were over-tightened, as we had just bought it about a month or so earlier and had brought it to a mechanic to inspect, who removed and replaced the wheels. We then had it fixed by Bellingham Automotive. A few mechanic acquaintances had recommended them, and my father-in-law got the same recommendation when he asked around. It's in another state right now. I don't know if there's clearance without the spacers. I may just ask the mechanic to put these Grade 10 spacers/bolts on until I can have it looked at it closer to home: http://wheeladapter.com/single_spacers.php
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07-25-2016, 07:49 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rancho Nuevo (Cabo/Todos Santos) B.C.S. and San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,952
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How did the wheel check out?
__________________
Four time Baja 1000 winner, four time Baja 500 winner. Solo'ed the Baja 1000 to LaPaz/Cabo twice.
4-Wheeling since 1972, Desert Racing since 1989.
AgileOffRoad.com
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07-25-2016, 08:11 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 10,220
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The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters.
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07-25-2016, 11:51 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 5,300
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They sure look like they were under-torqued to me, based on both where they broke and also the pattern at the breaks indicate some radial flexing. It can take LONG time for alloy wheels to finally take a good set and not need constant re-torquing.
My wheels initially required it every 30 miles a few times, then 100 miles a few time, then 1,000 miles a few times, then 10,000 miles a few time. It's only in the last couple years, after 150,000 miles that my alloys actually stay adequately torqued indefinitely. I think it's just the nature of cast-alumminum, and and takes a long time for them to strain harden. Simply not a good match for lug-centered wheels. Much less of a problem on hub-centered wheels, because the hub takes the load, and the lug-nuts also have more bearing area typically.
__________________
2000 E450 dually V10 wagon
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07-25-2016, 03:57 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 1,051
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Wow!
Since I don't have all the details, and you mention a big rig shop working on them first, my educated guess is someone may have overtorqued (and stretched past the point of no return) all of the studs.
The whole thing needs someone with an eye for detail go over it with a fine tooth comb, otherwise you risk the same result. As was mentioned, the wheels might not be fitting over the centering ring. Tire jockeys should know to look for this type of thing, but I've found it to be hit or miss.
I had a similar experience with a shop that does a lot of big stuff, they over pressured my F350 dually tires, and overtorque all the lugs.
Fortunately you can buy replacement automotive studs, you just have to match them up at a well stocked Napa or similar place with gray-haired old guys (not Kragen, O'Reilly or Autozone) Have them pushed out with a hydraulic press, or pound 'em out with 3lb sledge and big brass punch.
__________________
1995 E350 7.3 Diesel, 4x4 high roof camper, UJOR 4" lift
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07-25-2016, 04:05 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Francisco/Nevada City
Posts: 3,769
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I think the key is.. where did these spacers come from?
There are some super cheap made in china ones out there.
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