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Old 07-16-2023, 10:37 AM   #11
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This may be a little late, but my 2006 5.4 doesn't show alternative (non ac) belt routing, FWIW. Looks like boywonders diagram shows a pulley that replaces the ac pulley(?).

On an older ford, I remember the clutch could be removed and reworked...so wonder if there is an option to R&R the clutch, so that the clutch would rotate, but not be engaged (power relay to clutch). Then even with no ac you could drive....
Look for an AC shop?

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Old 07-16-2023, 01:12 PM   #12
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Rock auto lists belts for non AC setups.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...rive,belt,8900

Grab a part number and call the local parts places.

If length of the belt needs decoding read Holley’s article on how to get the right belt length-

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/tec...y_drive_belts/

Stay cool. It’ll all work out.

G.
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Old 07-16-2023, 01:22 PM   #13
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Straitarway Motors in Bozeman. Pete the owner (if he’s still around) is a straight shooter
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Old 07-16-2023, 06:29 PM   #14
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Could you buy an AC bypass pulley at Napa and use a (new) stock belt? Move the compressor out of the way until you get home?
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Old 07-16-2023, 10:02 PM   #15
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Most all of the pullies spin but the compressor is locked tight. The clutch seems to have annealed itself to the pully b/c neither the clutch nor the pully will turn. A few odd things happened in the days before the belt broke. The week before the belt put out a squeal several times but for no more than a few seconds and no hint of smoke. Two days before the belt broke, the A/C would switch on and off on its own and then stopped putting any cold air out. The climate controls on the dash stopped working as well. So it looks like something in the electronics developed a problem along the way too. Checked all of the fuses under the hood. All fuses were good.

Plan B (install a replacement pully and find a shorter belt) is still the best option in the short term but since we are headed to DC I will need some cold air. Primary problem for me is the compressor is buried deep on the passenger side and the torsion bar, Pitman w/steering dampener and tie rod are all in the way. I had originally thought of doing the job myself but to get to the compressor, the radiator will have to come out and possibly some of the sheet metal. Apparently there is a special tool that is needed to take off the fan and coolant pump, it is 90F outside and I don't have a shade tree to work under.

In the morning, I will stop by Straightaway Motors to see if they can work me in. If not I am at the mercy of the Ford dealership service department.
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Old 07-17-2023, 08:13 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntyrmvr View Post
Rock auto lists belts for non AC setups.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...rive,belt,8900

Grab a part number and call the local parts places.

If length of the belt needs decoding read Holley’s article on how to get the right belt length-

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/tec...y_drive_belts/

Stay cool. It’ll all work out.

G.

This is exactly what I would do...at least to be able to drive. It's work but you should be able to find a belt length that will work bypassing the A/C.

..assuming there is a reasonable routing without using the A/C pulley or the non-A/C pulley.

Route some string/twine around the other pulleys and get a length measurement...Find a NAPA or equivalent and use the belt length measuring gauge thing...and work hard to find a belt that works.
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Old 07-17-2023, 09:11 AM   #17
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I had a similar issue a few years back. I was in Bishop and lost all my A/C. Called the shop and he walked me through filling the system back to normal. Lasted about 100 miles and dumped again. Took it back to the shop when I got home and they recharged the system again. That lasted a couple of miles on my way home from the shop. Shop put in a new compressor. Then it blew again and I was not happy that the compressor was only a week old and brand new. This time it locked up for just a second, blew out a bunch of stuff but unfroze so the belt wasn't damaged. When the shop pulled out the new compressor I was told some kind of freeze plug or over pressure relief protection of some type had let loose. The compressor locking up has always bothered me since, but the shop changed the compressor, plus the plug(?) to a higher pressure on a suggestion by the manufacture. That may be true or he was feeding me a line of .... But no problems since. He said it had (in part) to do with the Starcool pressure levels but again I don't know if that is true or not. I don't think I added too much in Bishop but I'm an idiot dealing with engine mechanics. Maybe I just got a defective new compressor???
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Old 07-17-2023, 11:27 AM   #18
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Coming in late to the party, but here's a couple of comments/thoughts...


1. I don't think this is a compressor clutch issue, but that the compressor itself has seized up. As someone else pointed out, if the clutch was locked, you would just have the A/C running all the time.


2. As an alternative to the whole "find a smaller belt" plan, you could buy and install a new compressor and the correct replacement belt, but just not run the A/C until you can get to a shop that isn't booked out for days and days and days. The clutch on the new compressor will be unlocked and remain unlocked as long as you don't run the A/C. The downside of this plan is what to do with the refrigerant that will be lost as part of the compressor replacement...


It's a frustrating situation to be in, for sure. Wishing you good luck!


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Old 07-17-2023, 01:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
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2. As an alternative to the whole "find a smaller belt" plan, you could buy and install a new compressor and the correct replacement belt, but just not run the A/C until you can get to a shop that isn't booked out for days and days and days. The clutch on the new compressor will be unlocked and remain unlocked as long as you don't run the A/C.

Eric W.

..or perhaps just replace the A/C clutch......so the new one is free spinning...don't even plug in the connector.
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Old 07-19-2023, 10:00 PM   #20
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I had my 2006 6.0 A/C compressor fail once in 2019 and 3 times in 2022 all with similar failure modes: The AC stops blowing cold air, continue driving for 2-3 more hours, and then after stopping, compressor has seized up tight. The first time it took jumping off two diesel trucks to to get enough amperage to free the compressor. The second time it shred and snapped the serpentine belt in half leaving me stranded. After that I learned not to leave the AC on after it stopped blowing cold air. The first three I had repaired at three different Napa shops. The fourth time I took it to the local Ford Dealer. The Ford Dealer said they were having problems getting the correct Freon pressures and while investigating this found one of the pins on a coupler had backed out. Wish I could provide more detail but I only know enough to be dangerous.
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