MG Metal Works DIY kit knowledge share

[winnievan]

I kept a small remnant of that large bracket on my lines and used the hole in it to attach a spring between it and the radius arm...

Keeps the brake line away from the tire but it can still move as needed when the axle articulates!

Zip-tied my ABS lines to the brake lines, too -- it worked out pretty well.

[winnievan]

Regarding the ERA -- I found a device that is much cheaper than the Abbott and works just as good -- and is way more user friendly.

eBay link below...
UNIVERSAL SPEEDO SPEEDOMETER CORRECTOR

I emailed back and forth with the guy a bunch and he is solid -- this ERA does output a square wave -- which our PCM doesn't like -- but adding a simple capacitor in parallel with the output from the speedometer corrector converts this wave into something our PCM handles...


Here's the message from Gene, the seller/designer:
New message from: gkgoodcheapparts
Happy to help. Most Ford PCM's need an AC signal on the OSS input (even though they'll take square on the CKP and CMP inputs, go figure!). Usually you won't need anything complicated, just a capacitor to couple the square source to the PCM. It makes a funky-looking waveform but it's true AC and the PCM's will generally accept it. The cap wants to be 0.1 to 1 uF (microfarad) and rated at least 25V. Something like these should work fine:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384159595579

Best Regards,
Gene K

I can verify that this speedometer corrector works -- and it really is simple to use!! There is an up-button and a down button -- you choose the conversion ratio that you need -- and voila -- you're up and running.

You can figure out your conversion ratio using a spreadsheet I think I've linked previously in this thread -- but I'll link it again here since it seems relevant:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

You'll need to copy the spreadsheet to make your own edits -- but it's all there.

You can even have someone adjust it on the fly using a GPS speedometer until you get it to match -- no way to do that with the Abbott ERA.

This isn't to bash on the Abbott ERA -- I've spoke with those guys and they're great. I just really don't like that you need to contact them to get the dip-switch code for your ratio -- it's just poor design IMO.

[skumancer]

So, because I hate to cut cables and harnesses on vehicles, I came up with an idea for the ABS-sensor cable. I used the old E-series sensor wire end and the MOLEX 150 connector for the new F250 Sensor to make a pigtail adapter. Works like a charm!

[winnievan]

Nicely done -- I also found that you can buy the terminals and housings (even though they're discontinued from Molex) on Aliexpress:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256...apt=4itemAdapt

They ended up screwing up my order -- sending the female receptacle and male terminals -- but they are available to those who want to cut out the old one and then crimp in a fresh one to avoid splices in the harness.

Although I see nothing wrong with using good quality open-barrel crimp terminals, dielectric grease and adhesive lined shrink wrap to do wire repairs -- but I know this is a touchy subject for some

[skumancer]

Thanks, and yes I get you hahahaha. The thing is, the least parts I have to modify, the better. With this pigtail I know the only thing I have to remake/modify is the pigtail itself, easy enough if I screw it up. On the van harness side, if you have to cut a couple of times, you'll start running out of wire

[winnievan]

Originally Posted by skumancer

So, because I hate to cut cables and harnesses on vehicles, I came up with an idea for the ABS-sensor cable. I used the old E-series sensor wire end and the MOLEX 150 connector for the new F250 Sensor to make a pigtail adapter. Works like a charm!

Attachment 44771

Ah I'm guessing your have a later model year van - on my 2000 - the pigtail is the same Molex family -- just the other gender.

If you have the newer Molex connectors -- I'd probably do similar to you and have that pigtail!

One thing that drew me to the MG kit is the usage of stock parts... we travel a lot (or at least used to before we had a kid) and it's nice to be able to pop into O'Reillys or Autozone for a fix without needing (too much) modification to work.

When I modify things -- I like them to be serviceable as before. Can't always do it -- but it's a standard to aspire to IMO.

[skumancer]

So the van is finally assembled and ready for the rear suspension. The only problem is that I’m getting an RSC error as soon as I turn on to ignition. It says “Service RSC now.

I’m wondering if this error is coming from me wiring the sensor pigtails backwards? Can someone confirm if that would be a problem?

[winnievan]

I'm shooting from the hip here -- but I do believe the polarity matters on the newer ABS sensors -- or it could be your sensors are too "new" and not compatible with the computer.

What year is your van? I don't have a factory manual for anything other than 00-04 -- but I remember learning about this at some point.

[skumancer]

Originally Posted by winnievan

I'm shooting from the hip here -- but I do believe the polarity matters on the newer ABS sensors -- or it could be your sensors are too "new" and not compatible with the computer.

What year is your van? I don't have a factory manual for anything other than 00-04 -- but I remember learning about this at some point.

It’s a 2008 E350 with RSC. BUILD DATE: 21-February-2008

[winnievan]

Hrm -- I just re-read the MG email -- and it says RSC should be plug-and-play...

I forgot I have the 2012 F-Series diagrams, too.

Those sensors definitely look polarity sensitive -- there is a hi/lo on the circuit -- but more importantly I think these are "active' sensors instead of "passive" sensors as on the older non-RSC vans.



It's pretty easy to depin that Molex connector on your pigtail -- I'd just swap the wires across at that your pigtail and see if it works!