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Old 10-05-2021, 05:06 PM   #21
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2006 was when this was service bulletin announced. I'm reading posts from 2009 complaining they had to pay $600 in parts back then. It's like the people from 2009 are suddenly back in 2021 posting the exact same stuff. Sorry but this is all so silly.

They still make the replacement parts for the 1996 to 2003 vans the C channel was used on. I find that to be impressive. Their prices are reasonable for custom hand made parts and they keep them in stock forever it seems.

Meanwhile your vans are gaining value every year but shelling out $1000 is like someone shooting your dog the way grown adults are acting. Lol
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Old 10-05-2021, 06:59 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MauiSportsmobile View Post
Yes I have photos which I can post when I find them and I agree it's an older vehicle (1999) but Quigley has acknowledged the original torque arms are inadequately designed and need to be replaced. Tube steel is much stronger against fatigue stressing than C-channal.
Here's what mine looks like....not broken in the middle but completely broken in 2 at the weld on one end. I think the problem is the flexing of the c-channel at the interface to the much stiffer weld. C-channel does great with flex/fatigue....welds do not. If flex was the goal and actually a design choice, they failed at reinforcing the area near the weld (IMO). If they had boxed the area that welds to the bushing tube, it'd probably be fine. I suspect based on the amount of suspension travel that a Quigley conversion provides, that the goal here was actually just to use cheaper material to meet the minimum strength requirements while ignoring failure due to low-cycle and/or high-cycle fatigue
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Old 10-09-2021, 11:59 AM   #23
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I had mine on my 1999 Quigley replaced a few years ago. Probably put 90-100,000 miles on the square ones and noticed they were cracking. Got them replaced with the Quigley recommended tubular ones.
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Old 10-09-2021, 08:41 PM   #24
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Just got my old C channel Quigley torque arms replaced when Agile installed a RIP kit on mine...worth the upgrades.
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Old 10-18-2021, 01:27 PM   #25
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It happened in 2 separate suspension upgrade modifications, so I’m not quite positive, but I believe in the end, we moved it forward by just under 2”……
Yikes! I didn't think it would be almost 2" but I guess that makes sense for 315s.

Any chance you could measure the center to center distance on your rig currently?

Can you also describe what you did to the rest of the suspension for the trac bar, etc...? I bought my tubing and end joints and want to start off with the right length and maybe have 315s as the Max extended length and hoping for my 33s (285) to fit nicely at the shorter adjustment length.
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Old 10-18-2021, 02:18 PM   #26
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^^^ keep in mind that these vans are all over the place when it comes to what fits and what doesn’t. There is no black and white. 35’s fit on my stock quigley when I bought it and the only rub other than at lock where all tire sizes I’ve used already rub, the control arms, was on the lowest corner of the front bumper. Wasn’t consistent either. Had to be full lock and hit a pothole at the same time. Years later I lift the van with moog springs and go to a 315/70 tire and they rub on every turn both sides. Did a pie cut from a 1/2” to nothing from the bottom up and haven’t heard a rub since.

I’ve seen numerous places where people had to hack chassis to get 35’s to work and others like me who had to trim bumper, or no mods at all. So many variances between tires, van conversion companies, wheel offsets, etc. there’s just no way of knowing exactly what your going to have to do to get a specific tire to fit your specific van. Just gotta go into it knowing there could be some “modifications” before everything just bolts up and works.
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Old 10-18-2021, 02:54 PM   #27
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^^^ keep in mind that these vans are all over the place when it comes to what fits and what doesn’t. There is no black and white. 35’s fit on my stock quigley when I bought it and the only rub other than at lock where all tire sizes I’ve used already rub, the control arms, was on the lowest corner of the front bumper. Wasn’t consistent either. Had to be full lock and hit a pothole at the same time. Years later I lift the van with moog springs and go to a 315/70 tire and they rub on every turn both sides. Did a pie cut from a 1/2” to nothing from the bottom up and haven’t heard a rub since.

I’ve seen numerous places where people had to hack chassis to get 35’s to work and others like me who had to trim bumper, or no mods at all. So many variances between tires, van conversion companies, wheel offsets, etc. there’s just no way of knowing exactly what your going to have to do to get a specific tire to fit your specific van. Just gotta go into it knowing there could be some “modifications” before everything just bolts up and works.

Good point regarding wheel offset, I actually have no idea what my offset is...they are aftermarket wheels and I didn't buy them...maybe they're stamped somewhere on the casting...I guess what I'm hoping for is to push forward the right amount for my existing tires/wheels with enough adjustability left over to not have to redo these control arms if I do go up to 35s in the future.

I initially thought about .5 longer than stock quigley to start, but saw almost 2" as an estimate....thinking 2" would lead to issues with the trackbar bushings and the slid yoke.

Maybe the better question is, how much misalignment can the trackbar accmomodate reliably and how do I know I haven't over-extended the drive shaft?
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