Sportsmobile Penthouse splayed - what are the design-dimensions?

[moorefc]

Originally Posted by batgirls

Wowser. That’s a job.
I don’t see any signs of leaks or support failure. The top of the roof is flat.

The holes where the plastic rivets for the rubber seal penetrate the edge are blown out in spots, and they seem a bit splayed/spread.

Original Fresno tops had convolutions along the length. My 06 Texas top is flat, and a bit broader at the gutter.
When I received the Austin build, the previous owner had not bothered to "straighten" the gasket, pic. Replacing it and tucking it in solved the splay issue.
Best to massage the rubber rim back to shape when it warms. It should be possible to get replacement plastic rivets, even from sportsmobile, although the rivet and top molding can vary. The differences can be seen in the pic. The fresno thicker flange sides seem to not splay as easily.
If the tops develop a leak, its under the fender washers (or sometimes added roof rack). Butyl replacement is easy.
Cheers

[Orv]

That butyl tape also works really well for sealing outdoor electrical connections, especially antenna connectors. You wrap it in an overlapping fashion around the connector and then mold it together.

[tbrasher]

Originally Posted by boywonder

Here is a Mcmaster Carr P/N for the tape...random width 1/2.....

https://www.mcmaster.com/76385A33/

.....tear off a piece and form a pancake with your fingers.

Thanks. Does this method with the T Nut upgrades being produced by 'Justgosurfin'?

[batgirls]

Hi everyone, thanks for all the tips and details on the different flange types and gaskets.

Thanks for the butyl tape tips. I’ve had better results with eternabond (best materials has the best price usually ). It’s stronger and much thinner. Butyl tape collects dirt on its exposed edges and oozes out it the heat of the sun (your experience may vary :-)

The van is finally snow free. More pics below.

My plan-find widish aluminum extrusions that are compatible with yakima/thule clips. I’ll use them as the washers for the through bolts. That should stiffen up the top and strengthen the bolt to roof connection.

On the splay, i guess it’s 1-1-1/2” wide. I think clamps can pull the side walls in will and layer of glass is applied on the interior.

I think a stronger edge will help with the gasketry, too.

Thanks again!

[Nrobert10]

The last picture is that a crack in the top? If water gets into the wood core you will end up like the pictures I posted earlier in this thread. Water stuck inside wood inside fiberglass does not dries and continues to rot.

Good luck
Rob

[batgirls]

Hi NRobert,

Can’t tell if it’s a crarck or a gouge. I’ll get some eternabond or flex seal tape on it asap.

Thanks for looking out for me. :-)

[boywonder]

The top appears to be a Fresno top.

[batgirls]

Thanks again for the tip on the gouge/crack Nrobert10.

When you rebuilt your top, how was the wooden frame connected to the fiberglass? Is it just the through-bolts that hold it together? Or is the subframe glued/screwed from the underside as well.

I'm wondering how hard it would be for a fiberglass shop to remove the fiberglass top with out removing the subframe and canvas.

thanks!

[Nrobert10]

The wood is laminated to the fiberglass when the top is built, no screws or fasteners inside.

[moorefc]

Fresno top. If you look at some of the builds, I believe the top and sides come off. The sides are mounted to the top when the top is inverted? You really need to determine if you have water in the wood, then go from there. Look at the posts on rebuilds. Boywonder has some great documentation. You may be able to replace/fix the rubber top gasket and align it if the top is not wood soaked/rotted. Otherwise if going the full pull, consider replacing the canvas (standard part)....Its the camels nose under the tent......but the full rebuild will be very nice.