AGM Battery Equalization, Xantrex and things of that nature

[NRL]

Got the Xantrex Link 10 partially installed and mocked up.
It fit perfectly in the old 51mm hole where the Nordskog Volt meter was.

Wanna make sure its working before we clear up the wiring and lock it down.



Kinda neat to see all the amps reading go down as I turned stuff off and the amps reading go up as I turned each 12V stuff on... Seeing the amps hours used is cool too... Still calibrating for time remaining Select.

[daveb]

Wow...thought they quit making the Link-10 or did you find one in stock somewhere?

[NRL]

Originally Posted by daveb

Wow...thought they quit making the Link-10 or did you find one in stock somewhere?

Got mine from Infinigi Energy Web Shop:
www.infinigi.com

Prompt delivery.

[Steve_382]

I had this posted under another topic, but it seems to belong here.

Well, I removed the cabinet for the batteries, disconnected the cables and charged each battery a couple of times using an automotive charger that has a setting for AGM batteries. I am now holding 12.7 volts on both batteries with an open circuit. That may not be too bad for batteries that are a little over two years old. I am thinking about doing an equalize charge to see if that gives any improvement. Have any of you tried this little trick? I also ordered a Blue Sea DC amp meter so I can check my current draw and determine when my batteries should down to 50% and see where they really are.


Excerpt from Tripplite manual
Select Equalize Battery Charge—OPTIONAL
This DIP Switch is momentarily engaged to begin the process of equalizing the charge state of your battery’s cells by timelimited overcharge of all cells. This can extend the useful life of certain types of batteries; consult with your battery’s manufacturer to determine if your batteries could benefit from this process. The charge equalization process is automatic; once started, it can only be stopped by removing the input power.

Setting Procedure
• Move to “Equalize” (DOWN) position for three seconds.
• Move to “Reset” (UP) position and leave it there. This is the factory default setting.
CAUTION: Do not leave DIP switch #B3 in the down position after beginning process. Battery
charge equalization should only be performed in strict accordance with the battery manufacturer’s
instructions and specifications.
Battery Charge Switch Position
Reset Up (factory setting)
Equalize Down—momentarily


Excerpt from Lifeline battery manual>>>>>
Conditioning should only be done when the battery is showing symptoms of capacity loss due to extended time in a partial or low state of charge condition. This could be caused, for example, by low charging voltage for an extended number of charge cycles, or by repeatedly charging to only 90% state of charge.
NOTE: Some chargers use the term Equalizing Charge instead of Conditioning Charge. An Equalizing Charge is generally applied to flooded lead acid batteries that are susceptible to acid stratification. However, an Equalizing Charge may be used to provide a Conditioning Charge for Lifeline® batteries as described below.
To apply a conditioning charge, first go through the normal charge cycle to bring the battery to full charge. The conditioning charge should then be applied by charging for 8 hours. At 77°F (25°C), the conditioning voltage should be set at 2.58 VPC (15.5 volts for a 12 volt battery). The conditioning voltage at other temperatures is shown in Table 5-2. By using the temperature compensated conditioning voltage, batteries that are not in controlled temperature environments may be conditioned without bringing them to room temperature. If temperature compensation is not available, it is best to bring the battery as close to room temperature as possible before applying the conditioning charge.

[scatter]

You'll get a lot of differing opinions on batteries and charging, but if your staying at 12.7, I'd leave 'em be. AGMs aren't too fond of equalizing. I've know folks that have done some damage that way.

[Skywagon]

I toasted a couple (3 actually), of AGM batteries in my boat by equalizing them. Luckily, it only cost me about $1500.00 to learn THAT little lesson.
Bill

[jage]

After talking to a Lifeline tech, I tried to equalize my batteries on their recommendation- not realizing the one Austin installed was actually a Deka. I don't think it hurt them, but it didn't help either- didn't seem to do anything. Strangely since they've been out and separate, there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with either...

[Steve_382]

OK, so Lifeline and others say the only way to know what shape your batteries are in is to run a load test. So, after buying the Bluesea handheld DC ampmeter for $125 plus shipping, I started the test procedure. I connected the 110v output from my inverter to a 100 watt lamp lodated in the garage and not in the van, so I didn't have to worry about lighting up the inside of the van, or setting it on fire while inside the house. I checked the voltage ouput under load and the amp readings from the battery. I have 2 Group 27 Deka house batteries, rated at 92AH each, for a total of 184 AH when new. Using the 100 watt lamp gave an initial load of about 10 amps, so that was close enough to a 20 hour discharge rate that the batteries are rated at.

After pulling a total of 92.5 amps over an 8.5 hour test, my loaded voltage was down to 11.58, which Lifeline says is about 80% discharged. I then unhooked everything and waited 4 hours to see what the Open Circuit Voltage would recover to and found it to be 11.95 volts. This equates to 69% discharged, so within reason compared to the loaded readings also.

Bottom line, it looks like my batteries are down 25% to 30% from a new set as far as AH capacity. They are a little over 2 years old and have been run way down several times, so that may be expected. I'll probably try to get another year from them. Hope this info is helpful to others.

One other note, I checked the load with 3 of the SMB flourescent light on and found they drew a little over 1.1 amps each. Will check the fridge next, now that I have the handy ($125) meter.

Column Header Meanings
Amps drawn using 100w lamp on connected to my 2000 w Tripplite inverter
Voltage reading with batteries under load
Depth of Discharge from Lifeline chart
Hours under load
Total AH used during test
% Used of available AH

Load A	Load V	DoD	Hours	AH Used	% of Avail
10.25	12.80	0%	0 Start	0.00	0.00%
10.35	12.30	30%	1:12	12.42	6.75%
10.35	12.21	43%	1:40	17.25	9.38%
10.35	12.09	52%	2:42	27.95	15.19%
10.35	12.05	55%	4:01	41.57	22.59%
10.45	11.83	70%	6:02	63.05	34.27%
10.80	11.62	78%	8:12	88.56	48.13%
10.85	11.58	81%	8:32	92.59	50.32%

[NRL]

I just wanted to update my experiences with rejuvenating batteries..

I've switched to using two large 6Volt batteries in series for about a year now since the 6Volts are easier to replace when it comes time to removing them. They usually have some nice handles on them so one person can remove them versus needing two people to remove a 4D/8D battery..

So I had this old 8D battery lying around that seemed to be shot but still had some 12v life which I was using around the garage...
Long story short, I basically Desulfated the battery using two products to bring it back from the dead.

I used the BatteryMINDer Charger-Desulfator - 12 Volt, for AGM Batteries, Model# 2012-AGM and it revived the 8D.
I'm still doing some more tests (Charge, Discharge) measuring the totaly amp-hrs I recovered..measuring it with a Kill-A-Watt device hooked up to a small inverter to a fan/light bulb.

Another product I'm testing out is the Wizbangplus Car Truck Motorhome Caravan Battery Desulfator for 6 or 12Volt batteries.

I also found out my CTEK chargers I use for the cars actually has the pulse desulfator mode also..

I started using these Desulfators after Deep discharged the new 6 volts and was worried about the build up of sulfates crystals (what happens when you discharge your batteries) on the negative plates.. There are some nice discussions from the web regarding what happens when you discharge or deep discharge beyond 10.5 Volts and what happens...

I have the Wizbangplus connected to the new 6volts so you can just leave on and forget about it.. (hopefully).. and it keeps doing it's pulse thing..

[daveb]

Interesting, I've talked with a few who sell those desulfators and it sounds like something worth looking into but I have heard from some who claim they won't do what they say. Looks like you're having good results. Please keep us up on these. I'd like to try one out on an old Optima that has finally gave up on me which was one I did bring back from the dead once before. There is probably a point of no return though.