Little long winded but I think I got it!
'For Folks trying to understand what the hell I'm talking about
: this discussion is all about the house battery you may have and nothing to do the starting battery(s).'
Can't wait till I get the Xantrex Link 10 to prove my issue to myself.
I think I know why I'm not getting the full charge even though my inverter thinks so.
This is what happens on a typical week:
One a typical work week, Tuesday-Thursday, it's all good, 90%-100% Charged for the next day. Meals can be nuked for lunch and sometimes for dinner.
But not so on a new Monday over a long weekend docked at home (not going anywhere weekend):
Here is some data: On Friday's, after work, I dock and hook up to shore power to re-charge.
It charges for about 2-4 hours going through the 3 stages:
Stage 1: 14.76volts Bulk Charge
Stage 2: 14.16volts Absorb Charge
Stage 3: 13.56volts Float Charge
So by Friday Night, I'm all charged like on any other typical day.
So here's the kicker, how come when Monday rolls around and I'm at work and not on shore power and I nuke a meal for lunch, it's like at 50%-70%, even with the solar panel going?
I have 12V house devices have "stolen" my house battery amp capacity without the powerverter knowing over the weekend.
The powerverter only knows to start the cycle when you hook up to shore for the first time, once it's on float/trigger charge it doesn't know about all the other 12V house-side devices sucking up the juice from the battery(from the backside).
So, to cut to the chase, when docked and starting the charging process from 110V shore power, I need to turn off or auto-switch the 12V house-side devices when it's charging or add a 12V relay that switches all the 12V devices hanging off the 12V Fuse breaker fuse box over to a separate dedicated 12V converter/power supply also connected to 110V shore power.
Getting the 12V devices off the house battery that are on will help the powerverter charge it up as much as it can and doesn't trick it also.
Now I'm looking for a small converter power supply that can do about 15 to 30amps 12Volts.
Something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/350W-12V-30A-Regula ... 286.c0.m14
I guess it's similar to what I have done with the Solar panel already. Solar Panel has a relay in line to the battery, to switch off when I'm docked and charging. I used a small transformer to trigger the relay when docked to shore power.
Here is a list of some of my 12 V House-Side-always-On 12v Devices:
12V Light's if you use them on the weekends (I have swapped all to florencents and LEDs)
12V Tablet/PC with charger/ USB devices (Temp)/ Linksys Wireless AP/Switch
12V Lots of Cams/ Video Quad Splitter and 5w IR Emitters, 2 (12V) DVR's
Other 12V gadgets
12V Fridge would be another example but I have a 12v/110V/Propane Fridge and ruled it out.
We measured the amps off the 12 fuse panel from each fuse holder and it adds up. From as low as 3amps to as high as 6amps (all the House Lights on).
The Xantrex Link 10 should prove that's the case with it's amp gauge.
If not, I just can't believe the new battery is lame already; can't be since it's all good from Tuesday to Fridays.
By the way, I found a good 30A Equalization Charger that doesn't break the bank that I'm thinking of rejuvanating(equalize) my old batteries(8D, 4D and a few Optimas) that I thought were half bad:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sku=232563
And I was going to Zap (Equalize) a perfectly good AGM for nothing..