Battery Isolators, Separators, Switches & More (updated 2020)

[Scalf77]

The first is a new DC-to-DC charger, the Victron Orion -XS. The Orion-XS was designed from the ground up as a DC-to-DC charger. Previous units started with DC-to-DC converter technology. The results are a much more efficient unit than its predecessors (98% to 88%). The efficient components and new aluminum circuit board mean less heat.
The Orion-XS is also very configurable. One can now adjust the input/output current to match their alternator. As with the predecessors it can be paralleled with additional units.
It supports a VE.Direct connector, which allows connection to a Victron Cerbo GX monitoring solution.



The Orion-XS does support Engine detect circuitry, I prefer to set up with remote control with the “Run Circuit”. I also added an inline switch that would allow you to disable it if needed.

The next device isn’t new, but just being repurposed as current limiting device. The Victron Energy Smart BMS CL 12/100 is as the name says an external BMS for Victron Smart batteries.


What some sites have found is by looping the M8 battery cable back to itself. This disables the BMS functions but allows the current limiting features of the device. Note: It has been found on newer devices that you need to add 56K (3 watt) resistor on all three lines of the M8 Cable. The next step is setup the current limiting of the device. The current settings are determined by the fuse that you installed.

Of course, the voltage setting should be your charging voltage for your battery (or less). The device will allow current to flow up until it reaches the target voltage. This means it is a Bulk charging device or a single stage charger. It does not do absorption or float.
If you really need to do absorption or float you can pair this up with a Victron DC-to-DC controller, that can finish up with charge profile in parallel. Or better yet just use your existing solar controller to finish up the charging. Remember one of the pluses of a Lithium is that it doesn’t need to finish the full charge like an AGM battery.



Using the Smart BMS CL 12/100 is a cost efficient (less than $200.00) way of bulk charging your lithium battery.

[Big_ern_101]

Really wish Victron would get on the program and get an all-in-one solution with Solar MPPT and DC-DC and maybe even a 120-240 VAC mains charger like the Renogy or Redarc solutions. Love my victron stuff but the need for multiple modules is a pain in the hind end.

[dbhosttexas]

I ran into this after I did my upgrade / install, and I went a different route.

Removed the factory battery isolator set wiring between alternator and van battery to a direct connection instead of through the isolator. Per my equipment MFG directions added a 60 amp breaker between battery and feed line to the electrical cabinet.


Next I made the DC in connection from the feed line / ground that pre existed and into an AtemPower 40 amp DC to DC charger / MPPT charge controller. There seem to be at least a half dozen different rebrandings of this same device, housing / trim color and branding is all that seems to change.


I added a pair of Dokio 300w portable solar panels, long SAE cables, and made a cutom parellel SAE to 50 amp Anderson connector to bring it into the van, and in turn through a cable pass through and into the AtemPower charger. I also went with the Dokio kickstands for support. I just move them when the sun moves so I can keep them in the sun.


I do not yet have breaker on the feed from the panels but will likely be adding it.

I am charging into a Chins 400 amp hour bluetooth smart LiFePo4 battery. This has a smart BMS and gives me all the battery data I could possibly want or be able to use, no need for a separate battery monitor.


The battery feeds into the stock fuse panel the same way the original lead acid deep cycle did, no real wiring changes there.

For a while I omitted the converter, Just diconnected it from 12v, unplugged the 110v feed and left it to its own devices. Well I have just this past weekend installed, and this upcoming weekend will be relocating in the same cabinet just in a different spot, a PowerMax PM3-45 LiFePo4 compatible 110v AC to 12v DC converter charger.


I see in the many diagrams a LOT of fuses, including fuses on lines that are already fused. Not sure why you would do that. To each their own though.

The converter charger is fused, no need to put one externally. The DC to DC charger lists fuse or breaker as optional on the DC output. The unit is fused against internal failure, I would think should there be an internal failure of the battery itself, I have bigger problems than what a fuse can provide so what's the point?

I did not go anywhere near the most expensive route, nor did I go the cheapest, I went with equipment I have heard of before or better yet, had friends that used it.

My best friend from college has been running the Chins batteries for the last several years and is super happy with them.

My brother has the older AtemPower unit in his RV with AGMs and it works well, so as I brand I was willing to take the risk on the new model and am very pleased with the output.

The PowerMax was admittedly a complete gamble, but the online chatter about them is above average so might as well give that a shot.

My remaining piece of work is, being a 93 my van came OEM with a small frame 3G alternator, at some point, most likely when Sportsmobile had their hands on it, they swapped the bracket AND alternator out for a large frame 3G, so when I ordered by 140 amp alternator, it wouldn't fit, I worked with Summit to figure out WTF and found it was a large frame and swapped them out. No problem. I still need to install the new alternator. I believe the alternator that is installed is a 95 or 100 amp unit. So considering it is internally regulated, the 140 should cover all the charging I need going down the road...

[rsjaye4]

Thanks for the information, it is helpful. I have 1 2018 Sportsmobile on a Sprinter chassis and planning on converting the AGM to lithium batteries. Question: Will I create any problems if I add 200 amp lithium batteries with a DC to DC charger in between the existing battery isolator and lithium. Diagram I have seen always have the DC to DC charger in between house and coach batteries. I am assuming that changing the Zamp controller and inverter charging profile will not affect or damage the coach AGM battery.

Thanks

[1der]

The DC to DC charger is in itself an isolator.

Is the question because of the difficulty in removing the current isolator ?

[rsjaye4]

No, I don't think the isolator would be to hard to do, just a little work. I assume that removing the van battery and box would give you access to the isolator. I am planning to have a Marine Electrician doing the install. I am just trying to understand the associated components and if removing the isolator was necessary.


Thanks

[Scalf77]

A couple of things. First being that you have a 2018 Sportsmobile you would most likely have a ACR not a diode based isolator. The ACR would normally be monitoring both the start batt and house batt. Being that the DC-DC would be between ACR and house bat, the ACR won't work for sure in auto. It might be able to manual mode, but I don't think so. So you should find and remove the ACR. I am not sure where they usually place the ACR on a Sprinter, are your start batteries under the driver seat?

The second thing, yes you will have to change the Zamp and Inverter/charger settings for Lithium. It should not matter to the start batteries because they will no longer connect directly to those devices.

[N147JK]

Originally Posted by Big_ern_101

Really wish Victron would get on the program and get an all-in-one solution with Solar MPPT and DC-DC and maybe even a 120-240 VAC mains charger like the Renogy or Redarc solutions. Love my victron stuff but the need for multiple modules is a pain in the hind end.

Agree completely. If one has a deep interest in electrical/electronics it's probably fun wiring all this stuff up, but if not it just seems like never-ending "more" with "more". Like you, I'd like to see "more" with "less" (true innovation).

[dbhosttexas]

Originally Posted by Big_ern_101

Really wish Victron would get on the program and get an all-in-one solution with Solar MPPT and DC-DC and maybe even a 120-240 VAC mains charger like the Renogy or Redarc solutions. Love my victron stuff but the need for multiple modules is a pain in the hind end.

A lot of vendors do combo DC to DC charger / MPPT charge controllers and have for a while now.

I do not know of one that includes 120v AC to 12v DC charging in the same package, which is why I went the route I did... Honestly it would be nice to have a single, reliable combination unit.

I did just look at both the Redarc and Renogy websites, Renogy has combination DC to DC charger / MPPT charge controllers, Redarc however either does not, or I couldn't figure their product descriptions out.

The Renogy / Redarc both offer a 50 amp, they bypass 40 entirely, is well over twice the price of the AtemPower or similar units. And the AtemPower and similar have good reliability reputations. HOWEVER... Where particularly the Renogy has an advantage is that the control / display for the unit is a remote display I can mount up on the outside of a cabinet instead of having it buried in the electrical cabinet under the dinette.

It should be noted, I am building a 4wd pickup truck camper shell camper as well, and I have a 40 amp Redodo which is honestly the same thing as the AtemPower just a different label and different plastics color through the miracle of Chinese rebranding... The Redodo was a flash sale on Amazon which is why I went with that one, at a literal 50% off of the price of the AtemPower...

I am not disparaging Renogy in the slightest, just offering up alternatives that for me are working well... Honestly if I were to do it over again, the Renogy with the remote display is an awesome unit, but the price tag, OUCH!

[Scalf77]

Originally Posted by Big_ern_101

Really wish Victron would get on the program and get an all-in-one solution with Solar MPPT and DC-DC and maybe even a 120-240 VAC mains charger like the Renogy or Redarc solutions. Love my victron stuff but the need for multiple modules is a pain in the hind end.

Originally Posted by N147JK

Agree completely. If one has a deep interest in electrical/electronics it's probably fun wiring all this stuff up, but if not it just seems like never-ending "more" with "more". Like you, I'd like to see "more" with "less" (true innovation).

I believe I heard that Victron is looking in the AIO space such as Ankler, Ecoflow, etc. That puts the whole shebang in one box. I have installed the Redarc Manager 30 in a couple of rigs. it works as advertised and did a pretty good job, somewhat limited as far as battery size goes.

Victron is doing a great job of innovation making their products work together, tying it altogether with their Cerbo Gx. You can go to one spot for status, the devices can all know about each other, their Distributed Voltage Current Control makes sure they play well together. They support their own Lithium batteries but still communicate with a variety of other vendors.



So in some ways they give you the benefits of a one unit but the flexibility to pick the things you need. Just check the voltage limits on many of the dual controllers and you can see your limited on many of the panels available today.

I also expect the 24 volts systems will get even bigger (already big in the Transit world). From a vendor standpoint it is hard to hit the sweat spot of your customer base, Victron came out with their new Orion XS DC-DC units and most of the Transit people complain it is to small. But I don't think there are a lot of vehicles out their that you can get dual 250 amp alternators stock.