Inverter Wiring & Sparks

[Stormy98]

Thanks. I tried contacting Xantrex a while back for compatibility info but no response. Recommended charge voltage for my Redodo batteries is 14.4V+/-0.2V so based on the limited info in my manual it could work.

@boywonder: My manual doesn’t have that chart. Presumably since my model supports gel batteries it doesn’t equalize in that mode, but I’d need to verify the charge voltage. If it’s as low as the value in your chart, that wouldn’t work well.

I will be using a Victron smart shunt battery monitor; perhaps there’s a way to use that to see if the voltages are acceptable. But yeah, feels like an upgrade is the way to go.

[boywonder]

Can you set voltages in Sealed/gel profile? If so..and you can get to 14.4 and 13.4 then you can try it and see what you think.

...But yes I agree with Scalf77......that inverter/charger is showing it's age.

I suppose another question to ask is how often do you use shore power? For me it's next to zero.....

Do you have solar?

[Stormy98]

Do I have solar? Well, yes and no. The back story to all of this is that I was seeking out bargains and collecting parts for an anticipated build. But then I found a ‘98 Sportsmobile in great shape and bought it instead. The electrical system is good, but the batteries don’t have the capacity I would like and I would also like to run the microwave and a resistive heater on battery power. Hence the planned electrical upgrade. I really only use shore power (a Honda generator, mostly) when I want to use the microwave.

At the moment, I have: a Renogy inverter, a plug-in 12V charger, two LiFePo batteries, and a 550W Renogy solar panel. To utilize these parts, I have been considering adding a Go Power transfer switch, a solar charger, and a DC-DC charger (hence my other posts asking about removing the battery isolator).

So it was in support of that plan that this thread began with the inquiry about preventing a current arc when reconnecting the battery to the inverter. On that subject, it seems like it’s something one must live with and it’s important to ensure that the battery cutoff switch is self-contained and located in a safe place.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by Stormy98

Do I have solar? Well, yes and no. The back story to all of this is that I was seeking out bargains and collecting parts for an anticipated build. But then I found a ‘98 Sportsmobile in great shape and bought it instead. The electrical system is good, but the batteries don’t have the capacity I would like and I would also like to run the microwave and a resistive heater on battery power. Hence the planned electrical upgrade. I really only use shore power (a Honda generator, mostly) when I want to use the microwave.

At the moment, I have: a Renogy inverter, a plug-in 12V charger, two LiFePo batteries, and a 550W Renogy solar panel. To utilize these parts, I have been considering adding a Go Power transfer switch, a solar charger, and a DC-DC charger (hence my other posts asking about removing the battery isolator).

What 12V charger do you have? A modern one with a Lithium profile?

I run my 700W microwave from a 1000W inverter from my house batteries. I had 290Ah of AGM batteries before switching to LiFePo4 and could run it without issue until the AGMs got old ...it still worked but would sag the voltage down to around 11.9V while running.

I now have a 280Ah LiFePo4 and it barely breaks a sweat running the microwave. The 700W microwave draws around 1000W AC.

The LiFePo4 also powers my 12V water heater with ease....that was the biggest struggle with the aging AGMs.

I replaced a Blue Sea ACR with a Victron 30A Orion DC-DC converter when moving to Lithiums. They run hot but work fine.

Is your SMB a penthouse top? 550 W of solar on a penthouse will have it's own challenges.

[Stormy98]

Yep, charger is a Noco Genius 10A.

I need to determine the microwave specs and also do a more thorough battery check. The system came with two 6V 210Ah golf cart batteries wired in series and right now they won't power the microwave properly. It turns on and spins but doesn't heat. Works fine when connected to shore power.

I am also looking at the Victron 30A DC-DC converter.

Yes, a penthouse roof. Agree on the 550W panel weight being an issue but it was an offer I couldn't refuse. The SMB came with dowels to hold up the roof so I expect they'll get some use. I've also read on this forum about adjusting the springs.

[boywonder]

Adjusting penthouse springs is straightforward with a come-along and a short 2x4 if you are handy......the important thing is to understand what is holding the roof up during every step of spring adjustment.

You can shorten the chain by 3-4 links but at some point with lots of weight on the roof crossbar flexing/bending can become a problem.

You can also move the rear helper springs forward for more spring preload with small wooden blocks. It will be obvious when you've put too much preload on the springs......you will be hanging from the roof handles when trying to lower the penthouse.

Dowels/props in the corners are a band-aid solution but are better than nothing.

Where are you located?

[Stormy98]

Thanks. I'm in SoCal as well. Panel weighs 63 pounds so adjustment will be needed. I need to open the area at the base of the springs anyway because there's an electrical short in there somewhere. When I apply pressure to the ledge on the driver's side, the rear penthouse roof light turns on and off.

Will be getting into all these projects in the summer. Been looking closely at the 12V heater conversion also.

[boywonder]

I'm in OC......if you are willing to make the drive I'm happy to adjust your roof springs.

[Stormy98]

Appreciate that. I'll keep you posted on my progress.