Shoulda caught that; sorry.
Turns out an app I hadn't loaded in quite a while does offline maps and photos, GaiaGPS. You can choose from US Topo, Google maps/terrain/satellite, UK maps, Canadian maps, etc. I suspect it gets maps from the same sources as GPSKit. CalTopo, one of the sources, allows you to print topos, BTW.
http://caltopo.com/map.html#ll=38.8,-98.4&z=5&b=t
Otherwise similar features, although I think GPSKit's interface is a bit prettier.
Rob