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Old 08-31-2022, 08:06 PM   #1
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Replacing the Sure Power 1315-200 with a Blue Sea 7622 - Difficult?

Hello Group,

After years of questioning the Sure Power 1315-200 operation in my SMB, I’ve decided to replace it with a Blue Sea 7622 ACR (already ordered). As far as I know, I also have a battery isolator that was installed by SMB when I purchased my SMB new.

My question is how difficult is this replacement?

Will I need to remove the existing isolator?

Will I need to install a relay?

Will I need to make connections at the key switch?

I’m kinda 12V literate, but I wonder about that sometimes.

Many Thanks for your comments!

Johnny C
2002 Ford 7.3 EB50
Mt. Pleasant,Utah
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Old 09-01-2022, 08:48 AM   #2
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My question is how difficult is this replacement?

Relatively easy, especially since you already have a separator...1 or maybe 2 banana job.

Will I need to remove the existing isolator?

Yes, replace with new unit.....no reason to keep it in there, and the Surepower burns power when engaged whereas the Blue Sea does not (well.....burns way less power). If you want to relocate the new unit you may need longer/shorter battery cables.

Will I need to install a relay?

For a basic setup I don't think so.....I'm familiar with it's little brother, the 7610. For the 7610 you connect the positive cables from each battery to it and connect a small ground wire to chassis ground....voila! The 7622 has an option to run a remote "combine" switch ......some put that in the dash area for convenience. The LED wire from the separator also goes to the switch to provide illumination when using the switch.

Will I need to make connections at the key switch?

It appears that to isolate the batteries while starting there is a connection to the ignition start circuit.

Here is a good video:


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Old 09-01-2022, 09:43 AM   #3
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So if you do have the old isolator installed (diode based) I would add a banana to that job assessment. Normally you wouldn't install like that, especially if expecting bidirectional unit to work. It is possible that it was bypassed, or removed completely. But how that is wired would complicate things if it is still there. (would most likely need pictures to advise)

After that it is going to depend on the size of the wiring, if the wiring for the SurePower 1315 was updated when installing, you will be ok, generally the wiring for the old isolator is two small. For the ACR I generally would not go below above 2 awg. After that, if you have 2 awg cable, the terminals on the ACR are larger than the Surepower unit, so it is possible that you will need to replace the existing lugs. If you don't have the tools for that you could drill them out to the correct size, not my recommended process, but doable.

In the simplest installation of the ACR you just need to connect the two battery connections and the ground, the ground for the Surepower should be OK for this. But while you are here, it is a good time to check that connection, make sure it is clean and tight, and add a 10 amp fuse. This will protect you from flames if the ACR were to have a internal short.

The 7622 is full featured and should come with a switch to give you status indication, and manual disconnect and connect capabilities

I have include a pdf I created a while back for upgrading from Surepower to Blue Sea 762X


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File Type: pdf Upgrade from Surepower1315 to BlueSea762X.pdf (1,018.2 KB, 14 views)
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Old 09-01-2022, 10:55 AM   #4
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Greg: Is that your youtube video? ...no idea......lol.


I was assuming that the OP has the Surepower 1315.....perhaps the word "isolator" was used interchangeably with "separator".....
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Old 09-01-2022, 11:26 AM   #5
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Yes, actually that is my video.

It sounded like the OP had the 1315 installed with the old diode base isolator, at least that is how I read it. Depending on how that was wired in, would create different challenges.

Of course I could be way off base. The terms isolator and separator are many times used interchangeably.

-greg
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Old 09-02-2022, 01:41 PM   #6
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Thanks you guys for posting the video and PDF, they were very informative.

A few comments/questions:

My bad, I do not have an isolator. I replaced it with the Sure Power 1315-200 about 20 years ago. So, now I’m replacing the Sure Power with the Blue Sea 7622. And plan on installing the remote switch (PN 2146) that comes with the Blue Sea.

I have not removed the Sure Power yet but looking back at the “Instructions for Replacing Isolator with Battery Separator” from Sportsmobile years ago I see that I wired it with 4 gauge battery cable.

Question - Will the 4 gauge suffice or should I upgrade to 2 gauge for the Blue Sea 7622?

Also, I noted in the old SMB instructions that there was a black with orange tracer wire that I spliced together with the wire on terminal #1 of the old isolator.

Question - do you know what the black with orange tracer wire is for?

I also note in the old SMB instructions for installing the Sure Power it says (and I followed): “Attach 14 gauge red wire to “start signal” terminal on the battery separator to “start” wire which is 12 gauge white with pink tracer located in Ford wire harness under steering column”.

Question: Is this the wire to be connected to the Blue Sea Isolation #1 brown wire?


Many Thanks for your time!

Johnny
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Mt Pleasant, Utah
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Old 09-02-2022, 07:28 PM   #7
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Depending on what engine you've got and how long the cables are you may want to upgrade to 2AWG.

In the event of a low/dead starting battery...if you want to flip the switch and turn the key then you'll likely need 2 awg or larger. If you flip the switch and get a cup of coffee and relax for 10-15 minutes before turning the key 4 gauge may suffice.

Diesels needs loads of cold cranking amps to start......the 5.4L gas motor a bit less........


The 7610 separator is only rated for 120A so that one requires a cup of coffee and a little wait time.


The 7620/7622 is rated for 500A continuous and 700A for 5 minutes so of your cabling is up to it there's no waiting.
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Old 09-02-2022, 08:04 PM   #8
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Funny I just picked up a Blue Sea 7622 to replace the aging Surepower 1315 separator in my rig. I finally figured out the cause of starting battery drain to a 217MA draw at the what I believe is the 1315 unit.

Either way, time for replacement and I like the ability to isolate both battery banks when starting. Subscribed to see how it goes.
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Old 09-02-2022, 09:59 PM   #9
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Boywonder- thanks for the reply. My engine is a 7.3 diesel. I don’t have a problem upgrading the battery cable from the starting battery to the new Blue Sea 7622 with 2 AWG. But I’d like to not replace the cable to the house battery (it’s long and circuitous). Would I gain anything with just upgrading the battery cable to the starting battery with 2 AWG?

Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2022, 10:25 PM   #10
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So the start isolation feature is predominantly used if you have electronics that can't handle the surges or voltage spikes that may be seen when starting they vehicle on the house side. It wouldn't hurt to hook it up but for the most part not needed.

If you don't have solar or were just plugged in , the ACR would already be disconnected, and wouldn't connect until minimally 30 seconds after the voltage comes up on the alternator. If you have solar (and available sun), chances are that the two systems are already connected, so the isolate would disconnect during the start phase. So if you have solar might be worth it adding. Fortunately if going from the Surepower 1315, the wire that is used for their start assist feature can be used for the start isolate ( The wire needs to be hot when the key is in "Start" only.

I generally would run 2 awg, 4 would get you by, but if you have diesel, or a large house battery bank moving to 2 awg would be beneficial.

The switch is definitely beneficial, I generally like to mount up front where it can be used by driver, your milage may very.

I am not sure about the black orange tracer wire you referenced. That was on the old isolator correct, what did you do with it when installing the 1315?

I do agree the location on the steering wheel is a great location for getting access to the start wire, better than the fuse box location in my document. SMB many times has the fuse close to the ACR, in reality it would be suited at the source (steering wheel).

I like to use posi-taps for this type of thing

Another possible modification that is not in my update PDF , is my update to turn the 762X into a unidirectional ACR, or controlled bi directional unit.



By adding a relay into the control circuit, I could control the relay to always be in auto mode when the vehicle is running. When the van engine was off the ACR would revert back to the switch position. My general preference was to not have the start battery always connecting when plugged in or on solar power. If I thought the start battery needed some care, I could always use the switch to do so. If I wanted it isolated I just left the switch in off. The draw back of course was that you didn't have the switch control while it was run.

-greg
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