Hal The Van

[mgmetalworks]

I have a similarly sized Enco mill with a 3 phase motor in my single phase shop. I used a VFD (variable frequency drive) and some industrial switches to get it working and it works perfectly. I now also have speed control through the use of a rheostat switch (part of the set up of the VFD...though it doesn't need to be used that way if you don't want it).

The VFD takes in single phase and outputs 3 phase. It's been working great for a year now with no issues. If you want more details, let me know. I can point you to all the parts I used and explain the VFD setup a lot better than the poorly translated manual can.

[WVvan]

Yes please.
I ordered a TECO FM50 and have no experience with a VFD at all so the more information you can give me the better.

Nice looking setup by the way.

[mgmetalworks]

I used a TECO 7300CV VFD... I got most of the new stuff you see in the pictures from factorymation.com (switch housing, VFD, enclosure) and McMaster.com (multi-wire shielded cable) but I found some really good deals on used switches at a local industrial surplus store.

Are you going to use remote switches like what I have or are you planning to run straight off of the VFD touchpad? The remote switch wiring of the FM50 looks the same as what I had to do. Let me know if you want specific details about what I did to wire it up. I can take pictures or send a sketch of the switch wires and what goes where.

I got a lot of ideas for my set up from this guy's lathe project...

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/tr ... he-195492/

[WVvan]

Hal has been re-purposed. Just in time for Halloween.





Birthday gift from my brother.

[Ford_6L_E350]

You won't regret the VFD. Fairly easy to set up for variable speed and reversing the rotation. And with the 3-phase drive you get full power from the motor. I'll see if I can get a picture of mine on my Lagun Mill.

The best thing I added to my mill was a DRO (Digital ReadOut). Makes it so easy to be accurate to less than 0.001".

The mill may be more useful than the lathe, although some debate that.

Mike

[Ford_6L_E350]

Here is a picture of my VFD and Safety Switch:


Opening cut in the box to see the readout on the VFD. It is made by AC Tech. Here is one on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-TECH-VARIABL ... 4176afe451

The control for the VFD is on an umbilical so it can be moved wherever I want it:



I should get another one for the lathe.

Mike

[WVvan]

Your set up looks a lot more heavy duty than I was planning. Is the on/off switch box with "MURRAY" on the front also a fuse box?

[Ford_6L_E350]

Originally Posted by WVvan

Your set up looks a lot more heavy duty than I was planning. Is the on/off switch box with "MURRAY" on the front also a fuse box?

Yes. Local fuses are 10A vs. 30A CB at the breaker panel for the circuit. I used a 50A dryer plug for the milling machine instead of hardwired.

It isn't really heavy duty. I spent too much time as an electrician, and I like safe. Grounded metal boxes and conduit for as much as practical.

Mike

[WVvan]

Fridge Cabinet - Post #6

When taking measurements before ordering the drawer sliders I didn't think the frame could be moved as close to the wall as it ended up and still fit the fridge. This increases the aisle width but messes with one pair of sliders. Nothing that can't be fixed with a slight intrusion into one wall panel.


The thickness of the wall panel was all the extra space I needed. Sealed off the opening in the back.



Drill holes in the right side covering panel for the TV mount.


Bolt on the TV mount.


The TV slips onto the mount from above.




Mount the left cover panel on the frame. I'm using extra clamps since the plywood backing had developed a slight warp.




Using sheet metal screws to attach the cover panel to the frame.




Here's the frame with both panels installed. You'll notice the red and black wire with the white plug hanging in the back. This will be the power to the fridge. I ran the wire when the wall panel was off.




Mount the top cover panel.


Remove the panels and paint the exposed parts of the plywood. Both for protection and for looks.


Everyone's a critic.


Painted and back together.


Now here's something I'm not happy about. Couldn't find any corner molding that I liked so ended up using this 1/2" aluminum angle.


I'd be happy with 1/2" white vinyl angle molding but can't find any locally which pretty much means Lowe's. If you're reading this and have a suggestion please let me know.

Bolt the frame into place.








Here is one of the main reason I installed the tie-down rings. My walking stick. Before it was always in the way. Now there's a place to safely stow it without me tripping over it.


Right about this time in the build I suffered the lose of one of my favorite tools. This one.


It's a Canon Powershot. Up to now every single picture and video you've seen in this build thread, including the camping ones, had been taken with this camera. I really like this camera because over the years I beat the living spit out of it and it just kept on working. It's been dropped multiple times, beaten against rocks while hiking, tossed around then dropped some more. The display on the back has a couple cracks but still works. Remember the TV ad with the ape and the suitcase. Something like that.

Well it finally met it's match in the penthouse top. I accidentally closed the top on it while working on the fridge framework. It split open like a clam and when snapped back together it stopped working. That's not so say it can't possibly be fixed. Just figured it's time to get another camera. This particular model isn't made anymore but thanks to the wonders of ebay I bought an identical Powershot that's barely used. I'll have to remember to keep the new one away from the penthouse top.

[twogone]

You could hang your old camera off your rearview mirror