E250 Brake Upgrade Finished Now With Photos!

[1DogRescuer]

Separately, in researching Parts for the Upgrade (since it has been many years since OP), were there any issues with ABS Sensors/Lines on New Rotor/Hubs ? The earlier ‘03 part call out shows incompatibility when comparing to the Later (Upgrade) part call out ....

Last, I’m trying to decide if I want to do the “Full Monty” right now, replacing Radius Arms, Knuckles, Steering linkage. Are replacing those components “Optional” (albeit Advised) ? Can JUST the Brake Components listed on Page 1 be swapped, and the rest done piecemeal ? Being out of work thanks to Self-Isolation, I’m trying to “prioritize”.

Thanks for the OP !

[1DogRescuer]

Originally Posted by lashidalgo

Unfortunately, I must pass, my van has the baja grocery getter kit, extended radius arm and the whole guacamole...



And I managed to get the calipers loaded with pads and the mount bracket brand new for 160 each!, for all of you that are looking out there just keep an eye on eBay. They come and go quick!
Example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Motorc...72.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Motorc...72.m2749.l2649

Now Im on a quest to source the rotors. This one seller on eBay ensures me they have the same PN and they're interchangeable, I thought they're not. Maybe someone can shed some light here, I've found:
BC2Z-1102-A left rotor
BC2Z-1102-B right rotor

Are they really interchangeable?

Also for what I understood, I'll need to upgrade this lines also right?
1 8C2Z-2078-BR Rt Flexible Hose, OEM
1 8C2Z-2078-BL Lt Flexible Hose, OEM

If it matters to You, that you are getting legit Motorcraft parts, I encourage CAUTION on sites like eBay & Amazon, where Counterfeit Ford parts are abundant. The sites don’t care, as long as they get their ‘cut’. Since becoming acquainted with Ford Global Brand Protection, I have gained increasing awareness of just how Common chinese knock-offs are ....

Even with RockAuto, you might have a 30+% chance, alternatively on eBay & Amazon, it’s more like 60+%.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by 1DogRescuer

Separately, in researching Parts for the Upgrade (since it has been many years since OP), were there any issues with ABS Sensors/Lines on New Rotor/Hubs ? The earlier ‘03 part call out shows incompatibility when comparing to the Later (Upgrade) part call out ....

Last, I’m trying to decide if I want to do the “Full Monty” right now, replacing Radius Arms, Knuckles, Steering linkage. Are replacing those components “Optional” (albeit Advised) ? Can JUST the Brake Components listed on Page 1 be swapped, and the rest done piecemeal ? Being out of work thanks to Self-Isolation, I’m trying to “prioritize”.

I don't know your year, the current mileage or anything else about whatever van is under consideration for this upgrade. That being said.........

Using the parts I've listed gets you the swap that will be 100% compatible with any E-Series van from at least 1997 and up to 2008. Certainly any parts list will show them not being compatible if you pigeon-hole the search function to show m/y prior to 2008 using those part number.

Honestly there's no need to replace anything other than what I've listed, at least as far as the brake upgrade. Knuckles & radius arms are fine as is however the steering components need a thorough inspection and replaced as needed. Ball joints would be a top candidate for replacement as IMHO those are far more important than anything else. I had my entire front suspension renewed as it made sense to have as little down time as possible.

I would inspect the current radius arm bushings and renew them as needed--I use urethane parts myself. IF you go that route contact me before beginning as I have a tip or two that could be helpful.

HTH

[1DogRescuer]

Apologies. I thought (in haste) that I had included it somewhere prior. Must’ve been in the PM (?).
Anyway, ‘03 E250 SWB 162k mi 5.4L appears to have had virtually ZERO previous maintenance, and I’m “refreshing” bit-by-bit.
Just tossed in Bilsteins. Cleaned undercarriage to assess Wear. Body Mounts non-existent so acquired those and gearing up for that Task. Hellwig rear sway 7183 arrives Friday.
Currently trying to (release) a jammed / locked Parking Brake. Cannot get enough slack to release cables, and pedal fully released.

I’m ALWAYS receptive to Tips, Tricks, Hints .... Thanks !

[JWA]

Originally Posted by 1DogRescuer

Anyway, ‘03 E250 SWB 162k mi 5.4L

Currently trying to (release) a jammed / locked Parking Brake. Cannot get enough slack to release cables, and pedal fully released.

Someone else may have experience with parking brakes but my WAG is you'll have to remove the wheels to access the small window in the rear rotors to back off the adjusting screws which should in turn release any tension on the cables. Since you'd be going that far anyway its a good time to inspect, renew and/or properly lubricate that oft-neglected system.

Urethane radius arm bushings: Lift and support the front end, chock the rear tires. Using a 28MM impact socket you'd back the nut that secures the arms to the frame brackets. There are three 15MM headed bolts holding the mounting brackets to the frame which you'd remove and pry the bracket down and away from the frame.

Most urethane manufacturers have their instructions wrong for the E-Series when replacing these--the follow image shows what MUST NOT be discarded, the must be in place in order for the attachment to not have issues within a10-12K miles.



The plastic spacers can be re-used if not broken, new parts brought from Ford for less than $10 for the pair.

HTH

[1DogRescuer]

Thanks for the Tip !
Re: the Parking Brake, I’ve done everything but disassemble the (shoes). Adjuster backed off with no tension, sprayed Brake Cleanner, hit with deadblow hammer, pedal max ‘release’.

Cables still so tight, I cannot unhook from Clip behind wheel. Thought about just Cutting them, and Replacing; but, every “unnecessary” expense like that detracts from other (needed) expenditures.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by 1DogRescuer

Thanks for the Tip !
Re: the Parking Brake, I’ve done everything but disassemble the (shoes). Adjuster backed off with no tension, sprayed Brake Cleanner, hit with deadblow hammer, pedal max ‘release’.

Cables still so tight, I cannot unhook from Clip behind wheel. Thought about just Cutting them, and Replacing; but, every “unnecessary” expense like that detracts from other (needed) expenditures.

There is a tool used to release the cables where they snap into the bracket holding them to the axle, where they then attach to the pivoting mechanism that in turns expands the shoes. Once the retaining clip for the cables is relaxed it should allow you to loosen everything enough to pull it all apart.

Look for Lisle Tool #40750, maybe here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-40750...72.m2749.l2649

I'd not cut the cables as I'm sure they're not that cheap.

[1DogRescuer]

Good Tip. And, Appreciate the link ....

[1DogRescuer]

Scored my junkyard ‘drop-out’ yesterday. Quite an ordeal. (Person) who yanked out engine prior to my arrival, just randomly CUT parts ... smfh. So, I’ll need a Left Radius Arm, Both Calipers, Both Hoses, and Both ABS Sensors.

Annnyway, so that I have a ‘baseline’ for wheel clearance, could (someone) Please Post the Net ID of their 16” wheels that clear ?

Thanks very much. The wheels for my junkyard find were gone, otherwise I would’ve just measured yesterday. I’m suspect that my ‘03 16s will Not Clear (enough).

Thank you

[BrianW]

The old style alloy 16” Alcoa wheels should fit. I’m guessing the steelies should too.