I've spent the last 4 months or so rebuilding the motor in my 99 Dodge Ram Van 3500. [img]
Here it is just about ready to go back in [img]
Took advantage of a nice day and slid it back in hooked it all up add coolant and oil and turned the the key. A few seconds later she fired up and was running, wow I did it! I kept the RPM's up to make certain it had plenty of oil pressure and it ran very smoothly. If fact 15 minutes later I was still gently altering the RPM's not to high but keeping it off idle. Then I slowly let it come to idle when a loud ping killed the motor.
I pulled the valve cover and found a bent pushrod? What the.... So pulled the head and sure enough the valve is bent too.
ok so it's not the best of day's about now... Come to think of it not much went well that day, that's another story.
So I'm still not sure what went wrong? I'm going to pull the other head make sure all is well, also pulling the water pump and timing set cover to try and re-degree the camshaft.
I could use some good advice on some parts of the build that I'm not sure about. Here's what the rebuild included.
Block was cleaned in a hot tank, cylinder bores where honed, crankshaft polished, pistons and rods checked. New cam bearings pressed in all by the machine shop. New crank and piston rod bearings, new rings. New camshaft for more torque, new cast iron engine quest heads with new valves and springs came assembled. New hydraulic roller lifters, reused pushrods and rocker arms. New double roller timing gears and added a tensioner.
So my plan now is to check the cam degree and corrected if needed, replace the valve, replace the pushrods and maybe the lifter?
My question is about the lifters, as I use a pushrods and try to collapse each lifter some give easily and others are rock hard? I did not soak them in oil before installing, I only coated the outsides with oil and then slid them in the bores. Could this be an issue, should I pull them and soak them in oil?
When attempting to degree the cam I was having trouble and ended up setting the crank gear on the 4degree advanced key way and the cam gear at zero, could this be the problem? I've been told the crank gear should not be adjusted to anything but zero key way. But if that's true then why does it have adjustable key ways? The company I purchased the cam from says the cam must be degreed and the factory dot to dot is not good enough.
So if someone has experience and can lead me in right direction it would be greatly appreciated.