how to replace house battery under van

[Twoxentrix]

Originally Posted by Sarah

Thanks for the info,
Are the light weight panels as durable as the rigid? I'm going to add some weight to the bed and see if I can still lift it. I'd very much like to add a solar panel, but would prefer keeping the top manual if it's possible.

@ Sarah; Flexible Solar panels are very good if you look for the right ones. Boating community uses them a lot, and they hold up very well. Highly suggest you only consider panels which have the ETFE outer coating on them for durability. Lightweight, and you can mount them using aluminum angle iron. BUT, I would also encourage you to review some of the Threads listed below which may provide answers & insight. You may be better off installing suitcase Solar instead of Roof Top solar.
The alternator charges your batteries while engine is running, so anytime you reach your destination batteries are all probably fully charged. If you're like the majority of us, when you select a spot to set up camp you'll choose a shaded area - so, Roof Top panel(s) do you little good, but a suitcase (or two) on a 50ft+ cord would allow you to place the panels in the sun.
Read through some of these for perspective:
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...rea-31628.html

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...els-23929.html

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...e-28189-2.html

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ing-21140.html

[vlagat]

Originally Posted by Spr

Also, you mentioned changing the “house” battery on the passenger side. If you have a diesel the 2 batteries on the passenger side should be the van batteries. Most house batteries are mounted under the van in the back of the van. The house battery will be 2-3 x the size of a normal car battery.

Not on mine. Regular chassis #2 battery mounted ahead of the larger house battery - both on the P/S

And as others have mentioned, cables are too short to be able to see them when loosening the connecting bolts. So insulate that wrench so that it cannot sparky when it touches the chassis when you loosen the +ve.

[vlagat]

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

That's a good question. I recently bought a highly optioned 2011 E350 V10 with factory tow package and it has no second battery on the frame. I can only guess that it's a factory option some go for and some don't.

It's a benefit though IMO.

AFAIK the second battery was only installed on the PSD Fords.

[Oogs]

Originally Posted by vlagat

AFAIK the second battery was only installed on the PSD Fords.

I agree w this statement. Our previous SMB was a diesel with 2 batteries on the passenger frame rail. Our current V10 has a single under the hood.

As far as replacing, everyone is on point regarding how and what precautions to take. I replaced our 4D last year and bought a transmission jack from Harbor Freight and used a board to make up the height difference. Did it by myself but an extra hand would have been appreciated in hindsight.

[1der]

Originally Posted by vlagat

AFAIK the second battery was only installed on the PSD Fords.

Not correct. There was a factory option for gas vans that installed a second battery on the passenger frame. Hope this puts this to rest. It was available on V10 and 5.4 and probably the other non diesel powertrains as well.

Credit to REDOVAL and the source who he got it from:

"Here is a decent explaination from another member lifted from another dual battery thread:


Here is the deal on the optional FACTORY Aux battery on a gasoline powered van works, well at least my 2008 V-10. I just added a second aux battery with a tray I bought from e-bay. Here is what I found out.

The option Code is 634 $145 in 2008 you got ONE 78 AMP battery (main) and ONE 75 AMP battery.
The battery IS isolated from the main battery when the key is off.
The battery size is group 65 for BOTH of my Batteries.
The biggest problem of the batteries are how tall they can be and still fit in the box. 6 1/2 inches tall is it, unless you modify the box.
Aux batteries are available WITH and WITH OUT a trailer package.
Aux battery powers the trailer battery relay (if it has the FACTORY hitch wiring installed) when the key is on or off just like it does if you don't have an AUX battery but if the trailer drains the battery with the AUX battery the van will still start.
The relay for the Aux battery is mounted under the main battery.
The part number is F8UB-14088-AA
There is a diode in the hot in run circuit, it is mounted in the (as Ford calls it) BJB or battery junction box next to Fuse F5.
This wire on my van is White and Black 14 or 16 gauge and hooks to the small/energizer terminal of the relay.
One of the large terminals on the relay is another Black and White wire. This one is 8 or 10 gauge and hooks to a 60 AMP Fuse F20 in the BJB. This wire is Hot all the time.
The other large terminal has the feed wire to the Aux battery and a Red/Yellow wire that
feeds the trailer relays via BJB Fuse F24 20 AMPS and Fuse F8 40 AMPS.
(note without an Aux battery these two large wires have a jumper in them in at connector C145)

I hope that helps any of you who have wondered how this all works. I spent many hours with the factory Ford wiring book and a volt meter making sure this is how it works before adding my Second Aux battery to my system. The manual makes it look to me like the relay should have four terminals but mine only has three.

Oh and the reason for disconnecting the Aux battery ground (at the frame connection) is because it DOES power the trailer relays all the time even if the other battery is disconnected completely, plus one terminal of the relay is still hot."