Anybody changed the exh manifold on a 5.4? - Page 2

shenrie · 08-04-2021, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doublevan2

I remember reading that thread also (Sherrie) on this forum - but don't know where to go to find it ??

I remember that thread too. When I saw it it was like, oh ya, I remember that trick moment, lol. It’s just an old mechanics trick I was told about. just get a cheapy spray bottle from wally world and mix equal parts acetone (Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc) and atf (automatic transmission fluid: also likely available at the same places) then just liberally spray all the bolts as often as possible in the weeks and days prior to needing the work done. Either that concoction or one of the many penetrating oils that are available these days.

Not sure I’d store the atf/acetone concoction in a cheap plastic bottle though...

JWA · 08-09-2021, 06:23 AM

It does need to be mentioned removing stock OEM exhaust manifold studs is made even more difficult when the steel threads become corroded in the aluminum head(s).

Even when the actual exhaust manifold is removed too often the studs need to be removed which is an ordeal all to itself.

From what I've read on FTE whether its an F-Series or E-Series its a labor-intensive process that can be easily botched causing an entire head to be removed and repaired.

If you have time and infinite patience it can be a DIY job---otherwise find a trusted shop with experience doing this and bite the bullet.

Using Ford's stainless steel studs, nuts and washers seems to be the recommended parts. I would venture Ford's SS is a bit better than the cheaper parts found on eBay etc. (I have part numbers for what I used on file if anyone is interested.)

boywonder · 08-09-2021, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWA

I have part numbers for what I used on file if anyone is interested.

Sure...for all future readers of this thread........post them up

REDOVAL · 08-09-2021, 08:25 AM

I did this job on a 4.6L van I had a while back and it was not a big deal. Going in with an empty day and lots of patience helps a ton

Scott

arctictraveller · 08-09-2021, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

That's if they don't have a problem. They always have a problem. If the word 'easy out' is mentioned when your frustrated mechanic calls you just tell him to donate the van and cut your losses.

Fortunately, getting a drill and easy out into a busted stud would be pretty well impossible without pulling the engine, not to mention what happens after the easy out breaks, even if the engine is out. Since I won't be pulling the engine, a far easier method is to weld a nut onto the stud. The heat tends to loosen it, and the new nut gives you something to get a socket on. About six years ago I had all the studs and nuts replaced with Ford OEM supposedly upgraded studs and nuts, but now the nuts are so corroded that there is nothing left to get a socket on. Fortunately, the same guy who replaced the studs last time is still in business, and is willing to tackle it again, so hopefully I won't need to donate the van. Meanwhile, since he can't get to it for a month I ordered some high temp metal repair epoxy to hopefully seal it up until it can be replaced and I'll be looking into some better studs and nuts. Thanks for all the suggestions................

arctictraveller · 08-09-2021, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWA

Using Ford's stainless steel studs, nuts and washers seems to be the recommended parts. I would venture Ford's SS is a bit better than the cheaper parts found on eBay etc. (I have part numbers for what I used on file if anyone is interested.)

Thanks, part numbers would be great, the latest Ford OEM studs and nuts don't seem any better than the original ones.

posplayr · 08-09-2021, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

Fortunately, getting a drill and easy out into a busted stud would be pretty well impossible without pulling the engine, not to mention what happens after the easy out breaks, even if the engine is out. Since I won't be pulling the engine, a far easier method is to weld a nut onto the stud. The heat tends to loosen it, and the new nut gives you something to get a socket on. About six years ago I had all the studs and nuts replaced with Ford OEM supposedly upgraded studs and nuts, but now the nuts are so corroded that there is nothing left to get a socket on. Fortunately, the same guy who replaced the studs last time is still in business, and is willing to tackle it again, so hopefully I won't need to donate the van. Meanwhile, since he can't get to it for a month I ordered some high temp metal repair epoxy to hopefully seal it up until it can be replaced and I'll be looking into some better studs and nuts. Thanks for all the suggestions................

I have not changed exhaust studs on my 5.4L but have worked with even older early 1980's motorcycles with similar problems.

1st you should try very hard to avoid using an easy out. If you fail to avoid the easy out, then you are not trying hard enough. If you end up drilling, just keep drilling till you can pull out the old threads and then use an insert or a Helicoil. You will have to over drill anyway and the original threads do not matter. But before getting that far the welding a nut approach is far superior as it breaks down the corrosion bond between the steel and the aluminum.

So if you think there is no other option but to use an easy out then keep drilling and just install a Helicoil with your choice of a stainless stud.

capnkurt · 08-09-2021, 07:46 PM

I don't know if this will be of any help to you, AT, but I recently had my Chevy's driver side exhaust manifold and bolts replaced.

I had noticed when the doghouse was off that the rearmost bolt was broken, so I took it to a garage I trust to have them replace the bolt. I thought that it would be as simple as replacing the bolt, but it turns out that (at least on SBCs), a major cause of the bolts breaking in the first place is due to the contraction of the cast exhaust manifold itself from many heat cycles. So, when they removed my exhaust manifold to replace the bolts (more broke during disassembly) they found that the holes no longer lined up with the block. This required a new manifold, of course.

This is just information in case you need it. Good luck!

Kurt

86Scotty · 08-09-2021, 07:46 PM

@posplayr, the problem is that you can't get a drill where you need it on these vans. Certain cylinders on certain motors of certain years of vans are dang near impossible to access even to change plugs.

arctictraveller · 08-09-2021, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by posplayr

1st you should try very hard to avoid using an easy out. If you fail to avoid the easy out, then you are not trying hard enough.

30 years as a maintenance machinist taught me that you are completely correct. I got good enough at drilling on center that I could end up using the tap drill size and then just peal out the old thread, but that normally required the use of a milling machine, doing it by hand is nearly impossible. I'm hoping that once the nuts are off, the studs will be usable, since none are broken.