adding cruise control - Page 10

Bungs · 08-27-2018, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Youngster

Yup, you got it, that's it.

For people with CC that's not working, that pressure switch is the 1st thing to check, they often stop working.

Unscrew old, replace with new, plug in wired socket, done. Place a rag underneath to catch the few drops of brake fluid that gets out, so it doesn't trash your paint down below.

Don't worry about air getting in the MC line, doesn't happen with this repair.

Do you know if there's a torque spec for replacing this? I can't seem to find one easily online

Youngster · 08-27-2018, 02:43 PM

Don't know what the torque spec is. It doesn't need to be too tight, just enough to keep it from leaking. Go easy on it. If you see a drip after the repair give another quarter turn.

Wanderer-RRORC · 08-27-2018, 03:48 PM

Yep..that's the typical torque spec on older stuff..tighten till it doesn't leak any more...but not enough to snap it off!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Youngster

Don't know what the torque spec is. It doesn't need to be too tight, just enough to keep it from leaking. Go easy on it. If you see a drip after the repair give another quarter turn.

Bungs · 08-27-2018, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wanderer-RRORC

Yep..that's the typical torque spec on older stuff..tighten till it doesn't leak any more...but not enough to snap it off!!

After calling every dealer in San Diego and either getting rejected or ignored, I called ford service directly. Three referrals later I finally got a tech with a manual on the phone. He said there's no torque listed. So, hand tight plus quarter turn it is!

My expertise is not in mechanical /automotive engineering, so I'm still a bit new in determining which shaking things I care more about or less about.

Oh, and imma re-tape that cable snake...

JWA · 08-28-2018, 04:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bungs

Do you know if there's a torque spec for replacing this? I can't seem to find one easily online

IIRC that sensor comes with a pre-applied encapsulated sealant that activates when its tightened into the MC port. Because of this finger tight then maybe 1/2 to 3/4 turn more should do the trick. When done start the van, activate the brakes a few times while looking for a leak.

Bungs · 08-28-2018, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWA

IIRC that sensor comes with a pre-applied encapsulated sealant that activates when its tightened into the MC port. Because of this finger tight then maybe 1/2 to 3/4 turn more should do the trick. When done start the van, activate the brakes a few times while looking for a leak.

Thanks!

Also, I can finally cruise! After replacing the sensor, I drove the van to work today. It was so great, knowing my upcoming 16 hour trip to Wyoming will be a bit more pleasant.

If anyone is reading in the future, the only additional thing I have to contribute is that the brake master cylinder sensor part number is 3L3Z-9F924-AB. Any should work fine, and they come with the little orange cap on the threads. Thanks everyone.

thefletch · 11-20-2019, 04:43 PM

My first post here. Thanks to everyone who posted. It has helped me get cruise in my 2002 Ford e350 box truck. So, I figured I'd share my experience to help the next guy (person) attempting this. Picked up a used steering wheel for $35 in one of the craziest junk yards ever. Ordered a new clock spring from Tasca Parts for $55. Put on the new steering wheel and clock spring (pretty straight forward) but didn't have cruise yet.. Found the brake pressure sensor plug on top of the drivers side wheel well. Mine had a plug in it and was actually attached to the wheel well with a plastic clip. Snipped the plug off and spliced the two wires ( one green/red, the other red/green) together. And......cruising!! The little green cruise light even works. Like others have said the light comes on after you set your cruising speed.Did NOT have to get the ECM flashed! Thanks again. Can't wait to take a trip.

JWA · 11-21-2019, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefletch

And......cruising!! The little green cruise light even works. Like others have said the light comes on after you set your cruising speed.Did NOT have to get the ECM flashed! Thanks again. Can't wait to take a trip.

This is unusual and pretty much not what I've encountered with the E-Series instrument clusters---the illuminating "cruise" lamp doesn't exist, at least not in the gasoline engine clusters. I have one now but only because I grafted an F-Series cluster into my '03 E250, had to modify the chassis wiring plug going into the cable pull servo in order to have that lamp work. Interesting an '02 cutaway chassis would have that sort of cluster.

Anyway good to have cruise---not sure I'd want to not have it working on any of my vehicles.

thefletch · 11-21-2019, 09:08 AM

I did fail to mention my rig has the 7.3 in it. This thread started with a post about adding cruise to a 7.3 van. I'm not sure adding cruise to a gasser is the same.

dtruzinski · 07-30-2020, 10:58 PM

I have learned a lot by reading this thread. I just completed the installation of cruise control on my 2003 7.3l e-350 van. First I bought on ebay a leather steering wheel with cruise control buttons. I also bought a c/c clock spring (part number F8UZ-14A664-DA) at ebay link (https://www.ebay.com/itm/26418721044...&s=ci&mail=sys) for $77.

Next I disconnected the battery (both + and -)...one can never be too sure. Then I attempted to energize the ignitiion and the lights...after 10 mins, i removed the 2-5/16 (8mm) bolts holding the air bag to the steering wheel. I was nervous, but this was a piece of cake. Remove the airbag assemly and then use a puller to remove the steering wheel (unbolt the t-50 star nut first). Disconnect the connectors and trace the wires from the clockspring to the connectors under the dash. This is the hardest part for sure. You will also need to remove the ignition and the wire from the clockspring to the ignition. Finally remove the old clockspring

Once you are fully disconnected, it is easy to reinstall. Slide the clockspring onto the steering colmn. The large clockspring connector that had 2-4 wires now has 6-8 wires (clearly for cruise control). Run the new clockspring wires to the connectors under the dash and add the wire to the ignition. Everything you removed will get reinstalled with more wires going to the largest connector under the dash.

Insert the ignition switch and using a T-50 star reinstall the steering wheel. Then re-attach the airbags (watch the youtube video on the first part of this thread). Go for a test drive and viola...no cruise control!

On the driver's side,inner fender wheel well, I found a 2 wire circuit with a cap, affixed to the fender well. I removed the cap and jumpered the wires. Took for a test drive and viola...cruise control without any dashboard indicators. That is good enough for me. Simple, cost effective and minimal time to install!