adding cruise control

[JWA]

Originally Posted by nyyankees588

Not to bump a somewhat old thread, but just wanted to thank everybody that contributed to this........ Cruise control now works perfectly!!

Glad this info was helpful and thanks loads for the update!

[wahoo]

I have an 04 e350 v10 with factory CC. Stopped working. Happened a couple of years ago too and was remedied by replacing MC pressure sw. This time it is not the pressure switch. I jumpered the connector to eliminate possibility of intermittent failure, still inop. Not sure where to go from here.
I do have an eight page" Mitchel Manual" "Speed Control Diagnostics" document that is specific to 2004 E350 as well as a few other select ford models. There is a speed control module self test both static and dynamic, however it says to do different procedures and watch the speed control lamp. But as JWA said about his, I have no speed control lamp in my dash.
Anyone have any idea what to try next?

Joe

[chachiboombatti]

It's most likely the switch set on the steering wheel, they go bad pretty easy. And unless you buy new, you will go thru a few bad ones from the junkyards and ebay also.

[wahoo]

Originally Posted by wahoo

I have an 04 e350 v10 with factory CC. Stopped working. Happened a couple of years ago too and was remedied by replacing MC pressure sw. This time it is not the pressure switch. I jumpered the connector to eliminate possibility of intermittent failure, still inop. Not sure where to go from here.
I do have an eight page" Mitchel Manual" "Speed Control Diagnostics" document that is specific to 2004 E350 as well as a few other select ford models. There is a speed control module self test both static and dynamic, however it says to do different procedures and watch the speed control lamp. But as JWA said about his, I have no speed control lamp in my dash.
Anyone have any idea what to try next?

Joe

Here is the TSB: tsb060805.pdf

[JWA]

Originally Posted by chachiboombatti

It's most likely the switch set on the steering wheel, they go bad pretty easy. And unless you buy new, you will go thru a few bad ones from the junkyards and ebay also.

No that's not always the case nor the most frequent cause of VSC failures. Since Wahoo's E-Series is 2004 it should still have the cable pulled servo connected to the throttle body. That device should be checked as well as brake lamps including the HMSL or "third eye" light.

Also there are three fuses potentially stopping VSC from working; F2.6 (10 amp) and F2.11 (15 amp) located in the Central Junction Box (inside the cabin). Additionally F1.6 (2 amp) located in the Battery Junction Box under the hood.

Note Fuses F1.6 & F2.6 are hot in run only, Fuse F2.11 is hot at all times.

HTH

[chachiboombatti]

Actually you're incorrect, its pretty common and most likely the cause at that mileage

[wahoo]

Originally Posted by JWA

No that's not always the case nor the most frequent cause of VSC failures. Since Wahoo's E-Series is 2004 it should still have the cable pulled servo connected to the throttle body. That device should be checked as well as brake lamps including the HMSL or "third eye" light.

Also there are three fuses potentially stopping VSC from working; F2.6 (10 amp) and F2.11 (15 amp) located in the Central Junction Box (inside the cabin). Additionally F1.6 (2 amp) located in the Battery Junction Box under the hood.

Note Fuses F1.6 & F2.6 are hot in run only, Fuse F2.11 is hot at all times.

HTH

Thank you JWA.
All three fuses ohm out good. F1 and F2 #6 are hot in run and F2.11 is hot at all times. And all three brake lights work.
Not sure how to check out the servo.

[chachiboombatti]

You can test your switches by ohming them out with a multimeter, and having a friend there helps to hold and hit the button while you test for continuity. In my experience it's the "on" or "set" buttons that go bad, assuming because those are the most used. Beyond that, it's unlikely that your actuator is bad but def is still a possibility. Theyre on ebay for sale, hard to find at salvage yards sometimes. And I def recommend buying a new switch set if you figure out thats the problem, buying a used set or salvage set is risky, I went thru 3 salvage sets before I found a good switch set

[JWA]

Originally Posted by wahoo

Thank you JWA.
All three fuses ohm out good. F1 and F2 #6 are hot in run and F2.11 is hot at all times. And all three brake lights work.
Not sure how to check out the servo.

Next step is to obtain an EVTM for your year which has ohm resistance readings as they'd be measured through the VSC system. You would unplug the servo (under the hood) and probe its connector for the correct and/or existing readings as each steering wheel switch is pressed---those values are part of the VSC schematic pages. If all those check out its the servo itself. Since you've ruled out the fuses and confirmed the brake lamps are working its down to what readings you'll obtain at the servo connector.

If its the servo and there's one available for your year it will be PRICEY. Although these tend to be very year specific there is a YouTube video showing possible compatibility of servos fitting an application they weren't (supposedly) designed to fit. See that here:

[chachiboombatti]

Ya I was able to use an 02 servo in my 04 e250, should be the same as yours im thinking. The switches are about all the same from the different years of that range. And ive tried to test the switch input at the servo, its much easier to just remove them from the steering wheel, takes 2 seconds, and test them on the bench sitting comfortably with meter and probe pins. Even without a wiring diagram you should be able to ohm each switch out, theres not a crazy amount of wires in their harness. And each button is either open or closed, no special resistance readings needed, its old enough. That doesn't eliminate the wiring going to the servo, but a break in that is unlikely but can be found using simple ohm test while the switches are out. And that may turn up that you need a spiral cable, which also is pretty likely. Only testing will tell